CW's First Bogus Theory of Cats... Watching cat behavior over the years, I have noticed that they scratch not only to flex their feet and claws, they actually like to stretch their shoulders and back, using their claws as leverage. This stretching behavior will tip over a commercially available 'normal' sized scratching post. Whenever I have observed one of my cats try to get a good stretch out of a standard cat post, it has moved or tipped and the cat has immediately given up and gone to find a more suitable object for an anchor - usually my sofa. I have noticed that when my cats start scratching at the furniture, the pieces they choose to destroy have a few things in common: 1. They are stable and heavy. (I have observed that my cats always prefer a post that does not move when they dig their claws in and yank.) 2. They are wider than any standard cat posts. (My cats prefer a post that is wider than their shoulders.) 3. They are taller than any standard cat posts.

(My cats prefer a post that is at least twice as tall as they are long.  They like to reach up as high as they can and get a good long stretch.) Eventually, I developed a theory, which I have dubbed CW's first bogus theory of cats:Merely disciplining a cat for using the furniture as a scratching post, but not providing them with an alternative that meets their needs is not likely to be a successful method of training. A post that serves a cat's needs better than the furniture does will be naturally preferred for scratching, and it should make training the cats much easier, since they will not be deprived of stretching out and getting a good scratch in, when their physiology demands it. So, I have created this tree-sized post, which allows a cat to flex their whole body, from their paws all the way to their tail, if they so choose.  Also, it is tall enough to allow them to exercise their innate and instinctive climbing abilities, without wrecking the curtains or other furniture.

Step 1: Get ready - Collect supplies and toolsShow All ItemsSUPPLIES 10 x wide elbows (Lowes part number: 96076 A21 2X1 ANGLE) 2 x narrow elbows (Lowes part number: 315683 STAN 1-1/2” ZN CNR BRC) 22 x .5 inch washers 26 x .75 inch screws 44 x 1 inch screws 2 x scrap lumber (½ inch thick, by 3.5 inches wide, by 36 inches long) 1 x concrete tube (10 inches in diameter, by 48 inches tall)Lab X Puppies For Sale 1 x edge-glued wood panel .75 inches thick, by 20 inches wide, by 36 inches longRunning Store In Ridgewood Nj ½ bucket of plaster (about 6 lbs)Car Seat Covers For Lincoln Town Car A few feet of duct tape 5 x rolls of sisal (.25 inches thick, by 100 feet long, for a total of 500 ft)

1 x plywood circle (12 inch diameter or 18 inch if you have two or more cats) 1 x circle of foam (12 inch diameter or 18 inch if you have two or more cats) 1 x circle of cloth batting (12 inch diameter or 18 inch if you have two or more cats) 1 x large bottle of fast-drying wood glue (16 oz) 1 x piece of cloth or carpet to cover the top platform (I used a cotton bath mat.) drill with 1/8” bit and 1/2” bit stirring stick for plaster mixing bucket for plaster magnet on a string (for fishing out tools and screws that you drop into the tube) *Wrapping the sisal takes hours, so get your patience all stocked up before you start.« Listen to the audio version of this article If you don’t want your cat scratching the furniture, you’ll need to provide an object more appealing. When I say appealing, I’m not referring to whether your cat likes the way it looks – I’m referring to whether it gets the job done or not. The only reason your cat may decide to scratch on the furniture instead of the post is because the furniture meets his needs.

If the post you provided looks pretty but isn’t effective from a cat’s point of view then it’ll just sit in the corner and gather dust. There are three “must-have” basics when it comes to a scratching post: Many of the cheap posts you find in your local pet supply store are covered in carpet. Pretty to look at, soft to touch, but totally ineffective when it comes to scratching. The post needs to have a rough texture that will allow the cat to rake his nails across the surface. When a cat scratches, he wants to dig his nails into the object’s surface in order to remove the outer deal nail sheath. If the post is covered in carpet, chances are all that will happen is the cat’s nails will get stuck in the carpet loops. That’s a sure way to drive him back to scratching on your sofa again. So when it comes to texture, think rough and not soft loopy carpet covering. Overall, sisal is typically the best choice. It’s rough, it’s durable and the cat can get an effective and satisfying scratch.

Even though most cats prefer the sisal covering, there are some cats who have other preferences. If your cat doesn’t like sisal you can try other rough materials. Some cats even prefer to scratch on bare wood. I know of several cats who go crazy for tree bark when it comes time to scratch, so if you don’t mind the mess, bring in a few logs for the cat to scratch on. Corrugated cardboard is another popular scratching material so if you happen to have a cat who likes to scratch horizontally, consider getting a few corrugated cardboard scratching pads. In general though, sisal is often a pretty sure bet when it comes to what kind of texture kitty prefers. You can get a scratching post that’s covered in the best material but if it’s wobbly or unstable, your cat will head right back to that trusty old sofa for his scratching needs. He has to be able to lean his full weight against the post without having it topple over. Unless you want to actually create an aversion to the scratching post, make sure the post is constructed well.

The height of the post is also important. When you’re dealing with a kitten you can have a shorter post but as your cat grows, he’ll need a post that will allow him to get a full stretch when he reaches up to scratch. Scratching isn’t just about conditioning the nails, it’s also about being able to unkink those muscles and get a full body stretch. Make sure the post you purchase or build is tall enough for the size of your cat. A point to remember: the taller the post, the wider the base. When you get a tall post, the base needs to be wide enough to maintain stability. I realize that a scratching post, just like the litter box, isn’t one of the most beautiful pieces of equipment when it comes to living with a cat. Although I have seen some very attractive and creative posts in my time, I recognize it’s a natural tendency to want to hide it in the corner. The post should be placed where the cat likes to scratch.If you’re retraining a cat who is currently scratching a piece of furniture then the post should be placed right next to that object.

Make it as convenient as possible for your cat to recognize the better option you’ve provided for him. Pay attention to your cat’s scratching habits so you’ll know where to locate the post. Some cats like to scratch after a nap or after a meal. Others scratch when in a tense situation or as a way to displace anxiety. Locate the post where you think your cat would appreciate it most. And you don’t have to limit yourself to one scratching post. I have one cat and we have three scratching posts located throughout the house (not to mention a couple of cat trees). This way, my cat can scratch near where she prefers to nap, near her favorite playtime area and also in the livingroom where she used to prefer scratching on my sofa. If you have more than one cat you’ll need more than one scratching post. Even though you can’t dedicate a particular post to a certain cat, you can offer choice and that’s a crucial component in maintaining multicat harmony. For specific help with furniture scratching, retraining a cat to a scratching post or if you’d like instructions on how to make a scratching post, refer to the book Think Like a Cat.