This classic looking DIY bed frame is the creation of Ashley Turner of the DIY duo Shanty 2 Chic. Plywood and moulding are the main materials, and you can customize the moulding to create a look for the bed that’s all your own. We have printable instructions that you can download, too. After building all of my kiddos beds for their rooms, it was finally time for mine! We have had a mattress on the floor for the past year because we decided to sell all of our furniture when we moved into our new home. I’ve had this bed design in my head for some time and to say that I’m excited to finally see it come to life is a huge understatement. It may look like a beast to build, but it is actually very easy, with the right tools, our plans and our step-by-step tutorial! You can click the image above to print our free plans and follow my steps below for extra help! The printable instructions include a list of materials you’ll need, a cut list, and step-by-step instructions. We’ve also included a supply list below for your reference.

Note: the plans are for a queen-sized bed. 2 – 4-ft. x 8-ft. sheets of ¾-in. PureBond plywood (we used birch) 2 – 2-in. x 4-in. x 6-ft. pine boards 8 – 1-in. x 1-in. x 6-ft. pine boards 2 – 1-in. x 2-in. x 8-ft. pine boards 3 – 2-in. x 3-in. x 8-ft. pine boards 3 – 2-in. x 2-in. x 8-ft. pine boards 2 – 4-in. x 4-in. x 8-ft. non-treated pine boards 6 – 3-in. x 8-ft. mouldings 4 – 1½-in. x 8-ft. mouldings 4 – ¾-in. x 8-ft. cove mouldings Stain of your choice (I used Early American wood stain by Varathane) I started by having my plywood ripped down by a nice associate at The Home Depot. PureBond is an excellent choice for a project indoors– unlike most plywood, it has no formaldehyde in it, which means no formaldehyde fumes leaking into your indoor air. Home Depot associates will usually make the cross cuts too, but I just had them rip them and made the cross cuts at home. An easy way to make cross cuts on wide boards is to clamp a board to the plywood that needs to be cut then use your circular saw as a guide.

Click the plan link above for a detailed cut list.Weight Loss 160 Lbs To 130 Lbs Next, I used my Kreg jig to drill my 3/4-in. pocket holes.Hot Tubs For Sale Northwest Once all of my pocket holes were drilled, I attached the 2 x 3 boards around the panels. Light Bulb With Flower FilamentTo get a perfect fit on my miter cuts, I like to make the first miter cut then mark where the second cut needs to be. Once both sides are attached, I measure for the top piece. Then, I attached the 4 x 4s to the bottom of the headboard and footboard. I bought casing for the trim because it was a much cheaper choice for a stain-grade trim. If you are painting, you will have more of a selection and better prices with primed trim. 

Start with the outside boxes, then measure and cut the middle box to fit! To attach it, I used my Brad nailer and Gorilla Glue Wood Glue. After the trim on the front of the headboard and footboard, I started attaching the trim to the top. To do this, I used a finishing nailer. Here is the headboard with the first piece of top trim attached. Now for the cove molding! I like to do the same here as with my miter cuts. I make one bevel cut, then hold it in place and mark where the cut on the other end should be. To make the bevel cut, I set the top arm of my miter saw at 45 degrees and made the cut. I used my brad nailer and wood glue to attach it in place. If there are any gaps at the corners, wood filler will fix it :) Here is the footboard, ready for feet! I used my drill to pre-drill for the feet. Then, I used wood glue and screwed them in place. Let the glue dry. While the glue dried, I worked on the side panels. Then, I filled all of my nail holes and cracks with wood filler.

Time for the wood stain finish! I used Early American wood stain by Varathane to finish the bed. I applied one-coat with this awesome Lambswool Stain Applicator – this was my first time using this applicator and I am totally sold. It made staining so quick and easy and the coverage was rich and smooth! With this stain, you only need one coat, and it dries in one hour! After I wiped it on, I let it sit for five minutes then blended the stain in with a clean cloth. When the stain dried, I used a power sander with and 80-grit sanding pad to distress all of the edges on the bed. I brought the headboard, footboard and side panels in my room before I assembled them. Do this or you won’t be able to get the bed inside :) Then, I attached the center supports and the slats with my drill. Now I can truthfully say that “I made my bed” everyday ;) I hope you enjoyed this post and are inspired to make your bed too! If you have any questions we would be happy to answer them!

Take a look at more DIY projects here on The Home Depot Blog. And follow our DIH Workshop board on Pinterest for more DIY ideas.UNC Chapel Hill Housing and Residential Education The Move-In Guide 2016-2017 (PDF below) tells you everything you need to know to prepare for your move to UNC-Chapel Hill. Here you will find answers about: Move-in dates and times What to bring / What not to bring What to do before you arrive Where to park and unload on move-in day Built-in furniture and moveable furniture dimensions Laundry Mail and PackagesYour address on campus You can also read student blog posts about moving to UNC to get an insider perspective on one of the craziest, yet most exciting, days of the school year. Move-In Guide 16-17 (PDF)2.01 MBPatton Hall and Bear House opened its doors August 2010 and is one of the newest residential facility on Belmont's campus.  It houses male and female residents and the rooms are either double or triple occupancy. 

Patton Hall and Bear House currently houses 475 freshmen residents. The main entrance and each floor are card access only. Patton Hall & Bear House are located directly behind Heron and Pembroke Halls and are modeled after Potter Hall. Patton and Bear House rooms measure 16' x16' and are suite style.  Rooms are furnished with 2 twin beds (height adjustable), 2 dressers, 2 wardrobes, 2 desks, and 2 chairs.  Rooms that are triple occupancy will contain 3 sets of furniture.  Internet and cable hook-ups are available in each room as well. Individual heating and air units are in each room and are controlled by the residents. Every room has tile floors.  Triple rooms have an additional set of furniture. There is a lobby on the main entrance floor with the front desk located to the side of the lobby.  There is also a second floor lounge area for students to gather.  The laundry facilities are located in the basement and is shared with the residents of Potter Hall.  Vending machines are also located on the basement level, along with 4 classroom spaces.

Patton Hall & Bear House  residents are supported by eleven Resident Assistants.  There is one RA per wing with the exception of the sixth floor.  Each RA has gone through extensive training in order to be a resource to our residents.  RAs create social and  educational opportunities within the complex through programming and community building efforts. The RAs are supervised by one full-time, live-in professional staff member, known as the Residence Director.  The RD is trained in crisis management, acts as a resource to the residents of the complex, and oversees the administrative aspects of the building such as maintenance and discipline. The RD maintains regular hours in their office located off the Main Lobby.  The RD also lives in an apartment located on the ground floor of the building. Your NameResidence Hall & Room #1900 Belmont BoulevardNashville, TN 37212 All mail is placed in student mailboxes by mail services each day (there is no mail delivery on the weekends or federal holidays).