If you want to install laminate flooring on your stairs I would recommend that you do a lot of research and find the information you will need to do it correctly. Installing laminate flooring on stairs can be tedious and time consuming and is a lot different than installing laminate flooring on a floor. Most often you will have carpet on your stairs, and you need to remove it first. It can have tack strip and a lot of staples. Be careful pulling the carpet off because the staples are very sharp. Its best to where gloves. Use a hammer and pry bar to remove the tackstrip.If you have an over hang you can either remove it or fill in the space under it so the laminate flooring can be installed. When purchasing your laminate flooring you will need to purchase stair nose moldings also to have an over hang with the laminate. There are a few different ways to cut the over hang off the stair.  Using saws such as a sawzall, Skil saw or even a jig saw can work.In most cases one laminate plank will not cover the whole tread.

It is better to cut two planks the same size to fit the tread rather than using a whole plank and a small strip. The other thing to consider is, the sides of the stair case may be at a slight angle. If this is the case the tread will need to be cut at this angle so you don't have unsightly gaps. When cutting the laminate treads getting the exact measurement across the width of the stair is important.Cutting the risers are like cutting the treads, the difference is the riser is vertical. In the case a white painted riser is being installed. You can also use the same flooring for the riser as you use for the tread.  The riser may not be square to the wall on the sides so you may need to cut them at a slight angle to fit  even with the sides. You can use a simple angle finder and transfer the angle to the riser.  After cutting the riser to fit side to side, you will need to scribe the top of the riser so it is flush with the surface the new tread will be installed on.Cutting the stair nose is just a matter of cutting it to fit snug on each end, and cut the ends to follow the angle of the wall if needed. 

As shown in the photo you can see how the stair nose needs to rest on the riser which should be cut flush with the surface.Round Toilet Seat 40 X 40I use wood glue on the treads with a notched trowel. 3 Day Blinds Employment ReviewDon't glue all the way to the front edge as this is where the stair nose will be attached with a different type of glue.Rear Seat Audi TtI use a heavy duty construction adhesive to glue the stair nose with. I also nail into the stair nose three or four nails across, not too close to the edges. Use a matching putty to fill in the nail holes.Here is the end result a nice looking stair.We’ve listed alphabetically all of the flooring types available so that you can easily determine whether you can install laminate over that specific flooring type.

Remember that laminate flooring, like American Concepts, is a floating floor; it will expand and contract as temperature and other conditions change. This means that the choice of subfloor, i.e., what you install laminate over, needs to provide the right support and meets the specifications listed above.Even with a brick floor in excellent condition, there is the potential for too much surface deviance that could stress the laminate-flooring locking system. And if the floor is below grade, moisture migration will be too difficult to control.Carpet, its padding, and all its staples must be completely removed — down to the subfloor — before you install laminate flooring. Carpeting, commercial or needle-bond: No. Some types and styles of commercial or “indoor/outdoor” carpeting may look harmless, but it and any adhesive used to glue it down must be removed before installing a laminate floor.Everything has to go. Only the subfloor may remain when you install laminate.Again, provided the surface of the floor is flat and level (per our laminate subfloor specifications) and the condition of the floor is good.

The tiles themselves must be smooth. You must use padding. Check for cracked or loose tiles and grout — these could be signs of a poor floor condition caused by settling that could cause problems for your laminate floor. Concrete slab (above grade): Yes. An above-grade concrete floor will most likely be in a commercial building. If that’s the case, and you’re not the building owner, you’d better check first. If the building is new construction, the concrete must be completely cured for a minimum of 90 days before installation. We would still recommend a 6-mil vapor barrier and, of course, underlayment padding before installing laminate flooring. Concrete-slab (below grade): Yes, but be careful. These are usually found in residential basements and you must be careful about moisture migration from the ground through the concrete. We recommend several ways to test this and steps you can take to control it. And, the concrete must be completely cured a minimum of 90 days. You must use a 6-mil vapor barrier and, of course, underlayment padding.

Drains of any kind, French or otherwise, are clear indicators that this concrete floor is not acceptable for laminate installation.But just because it’s a cork floor doesn’t mean you can skip the underlayment. You’ll still need that before installing your laminate floor. Engineered-wood: Not recommended under floating floors.Keep in mind that in many older homes (40 to 50 or more years old), the planks may be in poor condition, warped, etc. Inconsistencies in levelness and flatness of the floor surface could create stress points for locking joints and that will cause problems later on. Laminate: Not recommended under floating floors. Instead, take up all of the old laminate flooring. You may reuse the underlayment for your new floor, providing it’s in good shape. Linoleum: Yes, provided the surface is flat and level (per our subfloor specifications) and the condition of the floor is good. You must use padding. LVT Floor (tiles or planks): Yes. The surface must be flat and level (per our subfloor specifications) and the condition of the floor good.

Some LVT products are floating systems or “loose-lay” and are easy to remove (preferable). If the floor is glued down, be sure you remove all of the adhesive before installing laminate flooring. Natural stone (marble, travertine, etc.): It depends. if completely smooth and above ground, then yes; if textured or rough, no. Outdoor floors, porches, patios or decking of any kind: Never. Laminate flooring is indoor flooring for controlled environments.OSB (oriented-strand board) is sometimes used as a subfloor in construction. As with all subfloors, it must meet the laminate-flooring specifications detailed above.Plywood is most-often used as a subfloor in construction. As with all subfloors, it must meet the laminate installation specifications listed above.The surface of the floor must be flat and level (per our subfloor specifications) and the condition of the floor good. Check for cracked or loose tiles and grout — these could be signs of a poor floor condition caused by settling which could cause problems for your laminate floor, too.