Replace a worn toilet float and save money. A running or leaking toilet can be annoying, but more importantly, it wastes water and can contribute to higher water bills. The solution may be as easy as replacing the float device inside the toilet tank. A float regulates the amount of water that fills the tank after each flush. Over time the float can wear out or become corroded. There are two basic styles of floats: a float ball and a float valve assembly. Don’t let the plumbing intimidate you; this is an inexpensive repair project that any do-it-yourself homeowner can complete in less than an hour. Turn off the water to the supply line. A shut-off valve typically is located behind the left side of the toilet. The water line may be coming up through the floor or out from the wall. If there is no shut-off valve at the tank, you must turn off the water at main water line coming into your house. Flush the toilet to empty the tank of water. Remove the old float ball and connecting float rod.

Do this by using pliers to unscrew the arm, counterclockwise, from the top of the fill valve. Thread and screw the new float ball onto one end of a new connecting float rod. Screw the other end of the rod into the fill valve. Turn the water on and allow the tank to fill. Check the height of the water with the mark on the inside of the tank. If necessary, adjust the water level by turning the float adjustment screw on top of the fill valve. If there is no adjustment screw, gently bend the float arm. Flush the toilet to drain most of the water out of the tank. Sponge out the remaining water into a bucket. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the coupling nut at the top of the water supply line located underneath the tank. Once it’s loose, finish unscrewing it by hand and disconnect the line from the tank. Place an old towel on the floor below the tank to soak up any water that may drain from the tank. Remove the lock nut that holds the float valve assembly to the tank using the adjustable wrench.

Pull out the old assembly. Measure the height of the overflow tube located in the center of the tank. Set the new float valve assembly to the height of the tube. There are several styles of assemblies, so follow the adjustment instructions for your model. Insert the float valve assembly through the hole at the bottom of the tank. Gently push down on the assembly and thread the provided lock nut onto the shaft underneath the tank. Hand tighten the lock nut, then turn it one-half turn with your wrench. Reconnect the water supply line to the assembly with a coupling nut. Attach the new fill tube to the float valve assembly. Clip the provided angle adapter onto the overflow tube and attach the fill tube to the adapter. If there are any kinks in the fill tube, cut it to fit. Turn the water on and check the water level. Make the necessary adjustments to the float valve assembly according to the instructions for your model. The water level should be 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube. Things You Will Need Pliers Sponge Bucket Adjustable wrench Old towel Tape measure Scissors (optional) New float ball or float valve kit References Danco: How to Replace a Float and Float RodFamily Handyman: Replace Toilet Valves -- Flappers, Fill Valves and Flush Valves Photo Credits Ryan McVay/Photodisc/Getty Images Suggest a Correction

Sign Up for Our Free Newsletters Did you mean ? Plumbing Home Repair - DIY Plumbing DIY Electrical Home Repair Heating & Cooling Repair - DIY HVAC Repair DIY Interior Home Repairs DIY Exterior Home Repair Glossary of DIY Home Repair and Tool Terms DIY Home Repair Tool Descriptions and Photos How to Select a Contractor - Tutorial on Selecting and Working with a Repair Contractor DIY Home Safety Tips Appliance Home Repair: DIY Tips and Step-By-Step GuidesWhite Lab Puppies East TexasThe ballcock assembly looks more complicated than it really is. Buy Fallout 3 T ShirtWhen you go toDrift Tires For Sale a hardware or plumbing-supply store to buy a new ballcock assembly, you’ll find that both plastic and metal units are available.

Plastic costs less and willBut plastic assemblies are not as sturdy as metal ones. plastic units usually cannot be repaired because many of them are sealed. you can purchase a type of unit different from the one you’re replacing as long as the new assembly has a threaded shank the same size as the old one. If possible, bring the old assembly with you when you to buy the replacement. Here’s how to fix an older-style ballcock assembly: Step 1: Make sure the water shutoff valve for the toilet is in the OFF position. On many older ballcock assemblies, a pair of thumbscrews holds the valveYou will have to unscrew them to remove the valve. Step 2: Remove the valve plunger, and you’ll see on or two washers orIf any of these parts is faulty, water will flow out past the plunger continuously, and the toilet will run constantly. Examine all of the washers and replace any defective ones. Step 3: If the ballcock assembly is sealed, replace it as a unit.

the toilet water supply at the shutoff valve and flush the tank. float arm from the old ballcock unit and remove the refill tube from the overflow Step 4: Look under the tank for a coupling or slip nut where the water inlet pipe enters the base of the tank. Loosen the coupling nut to free the waterThen use an adjustable wrench to grip the retaining nut or locknut immediately above the sip nut under the tank. Use another wrench to grip the base of the ballcock assembly shaft inside the tank. Step 5: Unscrew the locknut under the tank to remove the ballcock assembly. If the nut is stubborn, use penetrating oil to loosen it. Step 6: Life the old assembly out of the tank, saving the washers from all connections, both inside and outside the tank. New ones will probably be included with the replacement unit, but keep the old parts until you’ve installed the new ballcock assembly in case new parts are damaged during installation. When installing a new ballcock assembly, make sure the gasket and the

washer are properly seated and firmly secured by the retaining unit. Step 7: Insert the new ballcock assembly into the hole in the tank. inside washer in place, tighten the locknut on the outside sufficiently to make the inside washer fit watertight against the hole, but don’t over-tighten Step 8: Replace the coupling nut and water inlet pipe, reinstall the float arm, and set the refill tube into the overflow tube. Step 9: Turn the water back on at the toilet shutoff valve and check for leaksOf course, another thing to check is that the float ball does not rub against the back of the tank. Newer types of ballcock assemblies eliminate the float arm and the float ball. One kind features a plastic cup that floats up to cut off the water as the tankYou can set the water level in the tank by adjusting the position of the plastic cup on a pull rod. One advantage to this type of ballcock assembly is that it lets the water run full-force until the tank is filled.

the water off immediately, eliminating the groaning noises some toilets make as a float arm gradually closes the valve. One type of diaphragm-powered valve rests close to the bottom of theit eliminates the float ball and float arm. uses a flapper cover, lifted by a chain. Another type of ballcock also eliminates the float ball and float arm. is a small unit that rests almost on the bottom of the tank; valve senses the level of the water from down there. Moreover, since it requires no tools, this assembly is an easy unit to install. To install these newer ballcock Step 1: Turn off the tank’s water supply shutoff valve. toilet to drain the tank. Sponge up any water remaining in the tank before proceeding. Step 2: Remove the old ballcock assembly, following the procedure outlinedSlip the parts over the water inlet pipe under the tank in this order: coupling nut, friction washer, cone washer, and retaining or mounting nut. Step 3: Install the new unit inside the tank, fitting the threaded shank down