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Satin Silver Fluted Seam Cover Transition StripSatin Nickel Fluted T-Molding Transition Strip for Similar Height Floors with Snap TrackBeige Fluted T-Molding Transition Strip for Similar Height Floors with Snap Track I have ripped out some old carpet and am preparing to install a new solid hardwood floor myself. In several places, the floor transitions to an existing tile floor. The hardwood floor guys told me the best transition between the two is a T molding. You simply leave a gap between the two floors, and then place down the T molding between the two floors, so it sits on both surfaces. However, the height difference of the two floors is considerable, and the T molding does not sit flush. What are my options? Here is a diagram showing the dimensions. NOTE: Using the T molding is not a requirement, I could go some other route if there is a better option. tile hardwood-floor finishing trim molding In your situation, I'd use reducer molding instead of T molding:

I ended up taking advise from @chris's answer and making my own transition from actual flooring. I cut away part of the flooring to make the transition piece sit flush on the floor and then on top of the tile. I then routed a rounded edge so the piece on top of the tile flowed down more gradually. I was a little worried about the routed part and how it would look compared to the top (finished) of the flooring. Maine Coon Kitten WhiteBut with a little flooring varnish, and then a rub with some scotch brite to dull the finish, it was a perfect match. Tub To Tile Shower ConversionThis worked because the wood was not stained, and natural in color. Auto Seat Headrest CoversIf it has been stained, it would have been a little harder to match.

We are very happy how it turned out. It's a smooth transition, more so than an actual transition piece like a T or reducer since it does not rise up higher than the hardwood floor or the tile. Here is a pic of a cut away piece with the routed edge: Here is a pic of the finished transition: You might have some more flexibility if you went with aluminum. Another option if you want to avoid using a molding between the two surfaces is to cut down the hardwood a bit so that they meet flush. This may or may not be feasible depending on the construction and thickness of the hardwood, and how long the join may be. From your diagram, it looks like you'd have to cut down once side of the hardwood about 1/4", and remove the underpad from the last couple of inches. You'd also probably have to glue the last piece down to the floor, which might not work well if there could be significant expansion/contraction. I ran into a similar situation with engineered hardwood transition to a master bath small format tile.

Before finding this page I looked at a number of different solutions. IN the end I decided to under cut the plywood engineered wood, similar to the process used by some of the other folks above. As the lip of the cut back boards rest on the tile and the expansions space is only 3/8ths inch wide it would take a massive amount of pressure at a specific spot to do even moderate damage to the floating connection. Obviously this is a photo of a scrap piece rather than the finished product which has a close fit versus the large gap shown. The exposed plywood edge is unnoticeable except on close examination. Because the area could potentially get wet or be in a more humid environment, I sealed the raw wood with lacquer. I imagine the same process could be used when laying laminate flooring also. dark laminate would be easiest to color match.Browse other questions tagged tile hardwood-floor finishing trim molding or ask your own question.Transitioning from tile to hardwood often requires a threshold reducer.

Ceramic tile often creates a floor level that's higher than neighboring floors, such as those made of vinyl, thin hardwood or carpet. The different levels can be visually jarring and cause people to trip. You can install a threshold floor reducer to help the floor transition from the higher level to the lower level gradually, without creating a tripping hazard. Thresholds usually appear in doorways and can enhance the beauty of your floors by bringing another decorative element to them. Measure the height of your tile, including the height of an underlayment and mortar. Measure the height of the neighboring floor as well, then buy a threshold that matches the two heights. The reducing side should be deep enough to land on the neighboring floor snugly. Measure the width of the doorway. Cut your threshold reducer to fit using a table saw. Measure the distance of the track crevice to the edge of the reducer if you're using one that requires you to install a track. Some reducers use a track to hold them in place, while others attach directly to the tile.

Lay the track under the last layer of tile as you're finishing your tile installation, if your reducer requires a track. Slide it away from the tile so it matches where the track crevice will fall once the reducer is set in place against the tile. Allow the mortar to dry overnight. Apply construction adhesive to the back of the reducer on the side that touches the tile. Use a zigzag pattern. Add a bead inside the track crevice, if applicable. Add more glue to the subfloor if it shows between the two flooring types. Press the reducer onto the tile and over the track, if necessary. Hold it in place for at least three minutes, then place strips of painter's tape onto the reducer and the tile to hold it securely while the glue dries overnight. Ensure the top edge is lying flush over the tile and the bottom edge is tight against the lower flooring to prevent tripping hazards. Things You Will Need Measuring tape Table saw Construction adhesive Painter's tape Tip References World Floor Expo: Shaw Hardwood Special Installation TipsZickgraf: Installation Instructions Photo Credits Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images Suggest a Correction