Vinyl Laminate On Stairs

1,642 posts, read 1,542,921 times 1,113 posts, read 1,323,682 times 1,379 posts, read 1,935,639 times 3,427 posts, read 5,216,127 times 19,536 posts, read 39,676,311 times Originally Posted by calnbs Always cheapest & least problematic approach is to replace like kind with like kind. Originally Posted by Gettingouttahere My hardwood floor ends where my stairs are. I would love to tear out the carpet and continue matching the hardwood floors on the first floor but....... That would be the best solution but I have so many other things that needs to be updated as well like the kitchen and bathroom so I'm trying to find a compromise. Originally Posted by sj08054I hope I'm this lucky. 17,865 posts, read 24,810,490 times The cheapest would be to paint/stain what is underneath. We found red oak when we pulled up the funky carpet on our stairs. We sanded and polyurethaned it. 7,690 posts, read 9,255,871 times are not basic pine board that can be stained
Kinda got excited and went to check it out. Just my dang luck...it is just something basic....it's even uglier than the rugHow to Apply Vinyl Plank on Stairs Manufacturers make vinyl flooring in squares, one-piece sheets and planks. Planks mimic the grain and size of wood floors, making distinguishing them from wood or laminate coverings very difficult. Homeowners install vinyl planks on floors and stair risers throughout a home as an economical and visually pleasing floor and stair riser covering. Vinyl planks are easy to care for and maintain. Many vinyl planks are easy to cut and have a self-adhesive backing to make self-installation a snap. Spray a rag, sponge or paper towel with an all-purpose cleaner and wipe the stair risers, which is the section of the stairs the toes kick when climbing the stairs, to remove dirt and oils. Scrape peeling paint off the risers with a paint scraper. Vacuum the stairs to remove remnants of paint and dust. Hold a large piece of heavyweight paper over the stair riser.
Trace the size and shape of the stair riser with a pencil. Cut the stair riser shape out with scissors. Label the pattern to correspond to the stair riser. Not all stair risers are of the same size. Repeat this process for each riser. Lay enough vinyl planking, tightly abutted to each other, on a worktable with the unfinished side facing up to mimic the length and width of the stair riser. If you do not have a worktable, lay a sheet of plywood on the floor and set the planks on top of the plywood. Stagger the planks, so the end lines do not match up. Set the paper pattern over the vinyl planks. Trace around the pattern with a grease pencil. Remove the pattern and align a metal straightedge to the grease pencil lines. Hold a vinyl knife on the grease pencil line with the blade against the straightedge. Pull the knife along the line while exerting pressure to score a line in the planking. Put the vinyl knife on the scored line, press down and drag it along the scored line to cut through the plank.
Peel the protective backing off the plank and put it on the riser, beginning along the edge where the tread meets the riser. Continue to peel the backing off the plank and set each piece on the riser until the planking covers the riser. Roll a hard roller over the riser to gain good adhesion. Repeat for each stair riser. Match vinyl planks to the color of the existing treads or install a lighter or darker color to add contrast to the stairs. Do not apply vinyl planks to stair treads.Wrestling Shoes Sale Uk Keep your fingers out of the path of the vinyl knife blade.Used Laminate Flooring For Sale How to Install Vinyl Stair Treads. Master Spa Hot Tub DealersA stair tread is the horizontal plank you step on when climbing or descending a...
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Steady traffic makes flooring in hallways, entryways, and stairs more susceptible to stains and wear. So for these areas, you’ll want to choose sturdier flooring that’s designed for heavy use, especially if flooring is adjacent to outside entry doors. For main entry halls or foyers, you’ll likely also want flooring that makes a more dramatic impact, since this area is often the first impression guests will have of your home. Here are a few flooring options to consider for these high-traffic areas. For high-traffic foyers, hallways, and stairs, a low-profile, densely packed carpet can add more life expectancy. Nylon is a great option here due to its resilience. Consider pulled-down nylon textures or level-loop constructions. Also be sure to select a high-quality carpet cushion. This may cost a bit more, but it can be well worth it when you consider the added wear life for your carpet. In terms of slip resistance, carpeting on stairs is a much safer option than hard surfaces like hardwood – which is probably why the stairs are the most common place in the home to install carpet.
But stairs can also present unique carpet installation challenges. Pile direction – The direction of the carpet’s pile should run from the top of the stairs to the bottom (not sideways). This ensures better wear and also prevents noticeable gaps between fibers where the carpet bends over each step. Open stairways – For stairways that are open on one or both sides, carpet needs to wrap around the outside edge of the staircase. This creates the possibility for a portion of the backing to show, which is a special concern with berber. Here, a higher-grade berber works much better than a lower-grade. Seams – Seams are also a concern, particularly where the carpet joins around posts. A longer pile such as a frieze or a saxony, tends to hide seams better than short or looped pile carpet. For stairways with adjacent entryways, the same flooring for both areas can provide one cohesive look. If you are considering a hard surface such as hardwood for an entryway and want to include the same surface on the stairs, a great option is to add a secured carpet runner.
Runners not only provide slip-resistance, but they also offer another way to add some personality to your entry space. Hardwood is a great way to add one cohesive look to entryways with adjacent stairs and hallways. The key here is durability. Harder woods such as Oak, Hickory, Maple, Birch, and Ash are all good choices. To hide potential dents and scratches, consider more textured formats such as wire-brushed or hand-scraped woods. If you are concerned about the appearance of dust or pet hair, you’ll likely want to stick with lighter stain colors and a low-gloss finish. For added durability, choose pre-finished woods with a protective polyurethane coating. Hardwood floors with the most durable finishes will cost more but will also hold up much better over time. Another decision you’ll need to make is whether to go with a solid or engineered hardwood. While both are made from 100% wood, of the two, solid wood is more susceptible to damage from excessive moisture and humidity.
Engineered woods are constructed in way that allows planks to grow and contract when exposed to changes in moisture and humidity levels. So for entryways that lead to the outdoors, a more practical choice may be a factory-finished engineered wood, which will be better withstand tracked-in moisture. However, all wood flooring is susceptible to water damage, so you'll want to use absorbent mats in areas where moisture is common. Mats with rubber backings are not recommended, as rubber prevents the floor from breathing. Harwood can also fade over time when exposed to direct sunlight. If your entryway gets a lot of natural light, also consider adding area rugs to protect floors from fading. Want the look of real hardwood, but not the cost? Or maybe you are looking for easier maintenance? Laminate flooring can be a great choice for high-traffic entryways and halls. New technologies are producing laminates with more realistic looks and textures than ever before. But the bigger advantage of laminate flooring is its finishes, which are extremely resistant to fading, scratching, and scuffing.
Laminate installations are often easier too, as these floors can float over a variety of subfloors, and many products include snap-and-lock technology that’s perfect for DIYers. Laminate is also less slippery than other natural materials, which can be a big advantage for entryways. Like hardwoods, laminate can be susceptible to moisture, although with higher-grade laminate flooring, edges are sealed for added moisture protection. For stairs, laminate can be a bit tricky. Click-and-lock flooring planks and thin laminates may not work in stairways, as they are hard to cut and fit around existing posts or railings. Additionally, the depth of most stair treads (the part you actually put your foot on) is typically wider than most laminate-flooring planks. Here, installations may require piecing two planks together to cover the entire tread surface. To avoid this issue, many manufacturers offer a one-piece laminate stair-tread option. For busy foyers and halls, many consumers are realizing the advantages of luxury vinyl tile (LVT).
LVT incorporates the latest imaging technologies to effectively replicate both the look and textures of high-end flooring such as ceramic tile, limestone, marble, slate, and hardwood. In addition to its amazingly realistic looks, what makes LVT so popular is its specialized wear layer, which protects these floors from the scratches, scuffs, indentations, and stains that can damage other flooring materials. LVT is also easy to maintain, warmer underfoot – and often less expensive than many natural flooring materials. LVT is typically thinner than hardwood planks, stone, or ceramic tiles, so it can be installed over most existing flooring. And tile surfaces are water resistant, so LVT won’t swell or buckle from tracked-in moisture. But what may be the biggest surprise is the amount of design options available with LVT. For a more authentic appearance, ceramic tile looks can include grout, which won’t discolor or stain like real grout can. Tiles can also be installed without grout for a modern, sleek look.
Wood looks come in varying plank widths and lengths and include embossed textures and graining for even more realism. There are even custom trims to add more design personality to these floors. While not common, LVT can be successfully installed on stairs. But here a professional installation is recommended. Also verify that the manufacturer’s warranty covers stair installations. If you prefer the real thing, ceramic tile can stand up well to high traffic foyers and halls. Today’s ceramic titles include a large selection of colors, sizes, shapes, and decorative borders – perfect for creating a unique foyer design. Tiles are relatively easy to clean – although, grout may need periodic sealing and special cleaning to maintain its original color. In terms of installation, if your house is older, it's probably a good idea to replace your subfloor before installing tiles. Tiles can also feel colder and harder underfoot than other flooring options, and they tend to be slippery.
So it’s a good idea to place absorbent mats or secure rugs near entry doors and in other areas where the floor is more likely to get wet. For a truly dramatic entryway, nothing quite replicates the unique sophistication of natural stones, such as slate, travertine, limestone, marble, and granite. Much like natural woods, no two pieces of stone have exactly the same color, pattern, or texture. Tiles are available in varying sizes and neutral tones that coordinate well with most any décor. Luxurious stones like limestone or travertine can add an Old World feel to entryways. Sealed granite also retains its shine well and will repel water. For heavy traffic areas, softer stones, such as travertine, may not be the best option, as it can be more prone to chipping and denting. Other things to keep in mind: Real stone can be expensive, and installation by a professional is typically recommended. Porous stone must be sealed upon installation and resealed at regular intervals – generally every two years.