We are sorry, the page you are looking for is not available at this time. If you have any questions or would like to place your order by phone, please call us toll-free at 1 (877) 702-5463. Duette shades at a glance Duette shades are a type of honeycomb or cellular window shade. They have two or more layers of pleated fabric bonded together to form compartments (cells). Duettes have a soft, elegant look and superior insulation properties. Fabrics and cell sizes Select a fabric that filters light or blocks it completely, depending on the needs of the room you're decorating. There's a wide range of sheer, translucent and opaque fabrics to choose from and two cell sizes - 10mm and 20mm. You can view fabrics and colours here. Choose from five operating systems which range from standard cord-lock manual operation to child-safe remote control. A Luxaflex dealer can demonstrate each system and discuss the benefits with you. You can find out more about operating systems here.

Why choose Duette shades? Duette shades are a sophisticated way to dress your windows. They are made entirely from a remarkable fabric called spun-bonded polyester. It looks delicate, but it's very robust. As well as the standard up/down configuration, you can choose top-down bottom-up shades for greater control, or day/night shades that incorporate a sheer for day and opaque for night. Because of their cellular construction, Duette shades have been called 'the next best thing to double glazing'. They help to keep your home warm in winter and cool in summer Duettes can be fitted to almost any shaped window, including semi-circles and bays. They can be mounted inside or outside frames, and horizontally on skylights. Australia's first honeycomb shades Since first introducing honeycomb shades in Australia, LUXAFLEX® Duette Shades have been at the forefront of innovative design, offering the ideal balance between function and energy efficiency together with versatility and style.

Luxaflex Duette Shades: Australia’s first and still the leader. Privacy, light control and insulation Produced from a spun-bonded polyester honeycomb structured fabric, Duette Shades are an efficient window insulator. Duette Architella and Architella Ménage are unrivalled when it comes to window coverings that will keep your home warm in winter and cool in summer, as well as helping you save on energy costs. Bold Black And White Striped CurtainsDuette Shades are available in a large range of colours, fabric styles, opacities and textures to soften light and bring warmth to any room - as well as the largest range of operating systems to suit any window or door. Wireless Indoor Light FixturesChild-safe options Operating systems include child-safe options such as UltraGlide, the cord-free LiteRise and the motorised remote PowerRise system.   David'S Bridal Boho Wedding Dress

Right for your home Luxaflex Duette Shades provide more options and styles than any other honeycomb shade. Most of your home’s energy is lost through windows. Research reveals that up to 30% of heat loss from your home occurs through uncovered windows*. Duette Architella Shades feature a patented honeycomb-within-a-honeycomb construction, dramatically increasing the product’s ability to insulate in the winter and keep cool against summer heat. Three air pockets Five air pockets Vibrant colours Consistent beauty IllumaCell Architella Ménage   Ménage is from the Designer series and is exclusive to Luxaflex Window Fashions Galleries and David Jones. Top down bottom up Duo-lite LiteRise PowerRise Motorised Vertiglide Skylight Special shapes Register the warranty for your new Luxaflex window coverings today. The Luxaflex name is synonymous with quality and it's never been easier to protect your investment. Explore a modern take on a traditional Roman Shade. Designed with child safety in mind, Luxaflex Modern Roman Shades have no exposed cords on the back of any operating systems..

Want to keep up-to-date with the latest in Luxaflex innovations, interior design and trends? Then sign up to the Luxaflex newsletter for special offers and more, direct to your inbox.VENETIAN blinds contain two separate operating mechanisms, each of which is actuated by a separate control cord - the lift cord and the tilt cord. Each of these does exactly what its name implies: The lift cord raises the slats from the bottom up when you pull down on the looped end that hangs down on one side of the blind; and the tilt cord serves to tilt the slats open or closed. Pulling down on one end of the tilt cord causes a pulley inside the headbox to rotate, and this in turn activates a worm gear that tilts the ''ladders'' at each end of the blind (rope or tape) that support the individual slats. Tilting the ladders causes the slats to tilt with them, thus serving to open or close the blind (depending on which end of the cord you pull). As can be seen in the accompanying drawing, the lift cord runs in one continuous length, starting from the knot where it is fastened under the bottom slat of the blind, near one end.

The cord passes up through each of the slats (there are two slots or holes in each slat, one near each end, through which the cord passes), then across the headbox to the pulley- and-lock mechanism that serves to guide the cord and lock it in place when the blind is raised. Then the cord continues on down along the outside of the blind till it goes through the equalizer clip to form the loop that hangs down on one side. From there it goes back up into and over the headbox pulleys, and continues on down through the slats near the opposite end of the blind where the other end is fastened in place. Pulling down on the lift cord loop, when it is properly adjusted, should cause the blind to raise evenly and smoothly. If one side of the blind tends to go up faster than the other, or pulls up higher than the other, the cord needs adjusting. This is done by using the metal or plastic equalizer lock to regulate the length of each part of the cord: You adjust by pulling one side of the cord through the equalizer to shorten or lengthen it in relation to the other.

The side that is going up too fast needs to have the cord lengthened, or the side that goes up too slow has to have the cord shortened. In time, this lift cord may become so badly frayed that it tends to jam inside the pulleys or lock mechanism - or the cord may break entirely. In either case, replacing the old cord with a new length will solve the problem. This can usually be done without too much difficulty while the blind is still in place on the window. Lower it all the way down and tilt the slats to their fully open position. Under the bottom slat there will be metal or plastic clamps that cover the knotted ends of the lift cord. Pry these off and untie the exposed knots so the cord can be pulled free. Before doing this, however, tape the end of the new cord to the end of the old one so that as you pull the old cord up and out through the slats, the new one will be pulled up with it. Continue pulling the old cord out and feeding the new cord in with it as you go across the top (inside the headbox) and then out through the lock mechanism.

Form a new loop that hangs down alongside the blind as the old one did, then run the new cord back up over the pulleys and finally down through the slats again near the other end of the blind. Bring the end out at the bottom and tie the second knot where the original second knot was. If the original cord was broken and cannot be used to pull the new cord through, you will have to feed the new cord up through the slats by hand, following the path of the original cord, as shown in the drawing. Just be sure that as the lift cord goes through the holes or slots in each slat it also follows the original pattern of passing on alternate sides of every other tape ''rung'' of the horizontal ladder strips that support the slats. In other words, if the lift cord passes the rung under the second slat on its right side, it should pass the rung under the third slat on its left side, the one under the fourth slat on its right side, etc. (The newer, narrow blinds have ladders and supporting rungs made of string, rather than tape, but the lift cords for these blinds should still pass the rungs on alternate sides as they go up through the slats.)

Replacing a tilt cord that is frayed or broken is even easier. As the drawing shows, this cord goes over a single pulley at the top and comes down to end in a weighted tassel at each end. To replace the cord you simply lift the middle out of the pulley at the top, then cut off the tassel ends. Cut a new length to approximately the same length and thread it in place over the original pulley. Replace the original tassels, knotting the cord ends on the inside to hold them in place.We recently patched the mortar joints in our flagstone walk by adding fresh cement to various places where the original cement had cracked out. The trouble is that now all these patched areas are much lighter than the old cement, so the patches stand out like a sore thumb. Is there any way we can ''age'' these patches so they blend in better with the original material? - Mrs. A.C.N., Summit, N.J. The cement you used for patching could have been tinted while you were mixing it, but I'm afraid there is very little you can do now.

Dye colors that can be used on the cement would be tricky to use now. The lighter patches will get darker and less noticeable in time, but they may always look a little different. Our roof leaked earlier this year and some sticky material slid down the front of the cork panels we had installed in our guest room walls. Is there anything we can do to remove this and renew the appearance of the cork, as well as reduce the smell that the leak has apparently caused? - Mrs E.R., Walker Valley, N.Y. If the leak caused the material to run (glue or whatever it is), then the material causing the stain is apparently water-soluble and washing with water should take it off. As far as the smell is concerned, it's possible that there is mildew present. This can be washed off the surface with a bleach solution (one part bleach to four or five parts of water). However, if the mildew is inside the wall or behind the cork, washing the surface won't help; you may have to rip the wall open to treat the inside to get rid of it permanently.