Refer to the the list of authorized service centers on our website. If you need assistance, please call Thetford’s Customer Service Department at 1-800-543-1219. This may take a little investigation on your part. If the toilet is new and has never held water, the closet bolts mounting the toilet to the floor might have been over tightened. If this is the case, simply loosen the closet bolt nuts. If the toilet doesn’t hold water, there may be debris (toilet paper) trapped in the front groove where the blade slides into and is approximately 1.5 inches. A special tool to clean the groove is available from Thetford and various dealerships. If this doesn’t correct the problem on the Aqua-Magic Aurora, Galaxy and Starlite models, you may need to repair or replace the Flushing Mechanism or, depending on its age, replace the toilet. On the Aqua-Magic IV, you may need to replace the Blade Seal. Within about 10 seconds after flushing the bowl will normally fill from 1-2 inches to provide a “water barrier.”

If the bowl continues to fill with water, the water valve is leaking and should be replaced. Generally, the cause is the toilet’s Vacuum Breaker.Harbour Outdoor Furniture Sale For Aqua-Magic Aurora, Galaxy and Starlite, repair or replace the Vacuum Breaker. Small Puppies For Sale In Bloomington IlFor Aqua-Magic IV, replace the Water Valve.Hot Tub Cover Heat Loss The Vacuum Breaker is essentially a check valve or anti-siphon device, which allows water to only flow one way. It is a plumbing standards code requirement that a Vacuum Breaker must be on all toilets. This prevents waste water from siphoning back into your fresh water. Start by turning off the water supply to the toilet (see your vehicle owner’s manual for detailed instructions).

The Aqua-Magic Galaxy and Starlite models are mounted to the floor with two closet bolts and nuts. One is located behind the foot pedal and is easily accessed by depressing the foot pedal. Remove the 1/2 inch nut. The other closet bolt is located behind the toilet. To locate it, lift up the seat and cover and remove the access hole cover located on top of the hopper. Using a 12-inch extension with a universal and a 1/2 inch deep-well socket, remove rear nut. Disconnect the fresh water supply line and lift toilet straight up. For Aqua-Magic IV, disconnect the water supply line from the water valve located on the rear of the toilet. Remove the nuts from the closet flange bolts located on each side of the toilet. Carefully lift and remove the toilet from the closet flange. Consult your Thetford Permanent Toilet Owner’s Manual for more detailed instructions and illustrations. The seat and cover must be replaced at the same time. With the seat and cover in an upright position, quickly push toward the back wall and the hinges will pop out.

If the toilet has been installed too close to the wall, it may be necessary to remove the toilet (see the question above and your toilet Owner’s Manual for instructions). To reinstall, place the new seat and cover in an upright position and push in as you push down towards the bowl. The hinges will snap into place. Your toilet, sinks and showers should all be cleaned in the same way: We recommend using a soft sponge or cloth and a high-grade, non-abrasive cleaner such as Thetford’s Aqua-Clean. Do not use a highly-concentrated or high-acid content household cleaner, nor those containing abrasives, such as a scouring powder. They may damage the seals or plastic parts of the toilet, along with the seals on your dump valves. For parts and/or service – including those under warranty – contact a local Thetford Certified Service Center (CSC) or an RV Dealer. Or, call Thetford’s Customer Service Department for information at 1-800-543-1219. Under the Warranty Program, Thetford replaces or repairs toilets and/or parts, and reimburses for warranty labor.

On Aqua-Magic Aurora, Galaxy and Starlite models, it’s located behind the seat. Best visual access is gained by lifting the seat and lid about halfway up. On Aqua-Magic IV and Electra-Magic models, the ID Label is located on the center front below the rim of the toilet. Use the handy spreadsheet below. It lists the toilet models and their OEM, Distributor and Rack part numbers. No, it will cause the seal to further deteriorate. We suggest use of a toilet seal lubricant or drain valve lubricant to lubricate the seal. A silicone-based lubricant will work as well.Wood Replacement Toilet Seats for Dometic 310 Series Toilets - White We're sorry, this item is not available for immediate shipment.By Russ and Tiña De Maris Here’s a subject that’s not oft’ spoken of in RVing circles, but from a comfort standpoint, ought to be: How’s your RV toilet seat? You probably don’t think about the seat on the throne, lest you’re seated on the throne, and the seat isn’t too neat.

What can you do about an uncomfortable or worn out RV toilet seat? In many cases, simply replace the durn thing. Unless you’re “blessed” with an ancient vintage RV toilet, replacing the seat probably won’t require a visit (or contact) with the original toilet manufacturer for an invariably expensive “replacement part.” Drop that lid now and take a look. Does it appear that your seat attaches to the toilet like the one back in your sticks n bricks home? If it does, then it’s likely you can work with an “off the shelf” toilet seat from your nearby Lowes. But what might cause you to swap out your old toilet seat? Could be that it’s just plain ugly – I know ours could stand a retrofit, but sadly, we’re in the camp of the “ancient vintage RV toilet” that can’t be easily replaced. A friend of ours – who remains anonymous – can explain another good reason: Beware the crack. The friend is a good sized fellow, and failed to notice a small crack in a toilet seat before easing himself onto it.

All was well, until he tried to rise up again – the micro-crack in the toilet seat responded to the assault of his prodigious backside by opening up larger under pressure, then snapping closed like an offended snapping turtle. We’ll allow your imagination to picture the results of trying to stand up and re-clothe yourself with a toilet set biting into your bottom. Other RVers have reported that they’d like to get a little more rise out of their toilet seat for medical reasons. Oft cited are recent knee or hip replacement operations, where easing down or getting back up off the seat is torture. Yes, you can get a riser for the typical RV toilet, but the rise is only good for a couple of inches – hardly enough to help. While a replacement toilet set here may not be of much help, if there’s enough room around the commode, you may find that a bedside commode from a medical supply outfit will sit right over the top of your existing RV toilet, and a clever funnel-like design allows the contents of the commode to drop down into the targeted toilet.

Not only does this preclude having to purchase a riser, a taller toilet, or both, these commodes usually come equipped with handy armrests that allow the user to gain a little leverage on lift-off. What about the nuts and bolts of replacing your toilet seat? You could simply remove the old seat from your rig, and take it with you to the hardware store, sizing up bolt and hole patterns. If that’s a bit too much for your sensibilities, then make careful measurements, or even tracings on paper or cardboard. You may find that the “bumpers” or spacers that lie between the seat and the rim of the toilet won’t line up as they should. It’s possible to relocate them in some cases, or to simply add a couple of new ones in appropriate locations. Some mount with screws, or you could glue them into place. For you vintage RV owners that have problems finding a seat small enough to cover that equally vintage porcelain RV toilet, check out the Vintage Trailer Supply web site. For less than $20, you may find just what you’re looking for.