My testicles hang low, too low in fact. They sag so much that they make my penis look small in comparison. I’ve had this problem as long as I can remember and have done no stretching or pulling exercises at all. I’d like to change this look somehow, but don’t know if there’s a way to do this. Your advice would be appreciated. I’ve seen this look before, where a man with very low hanging testicles and an average sized penis has a package that looks all out of proportion. In these situations, the sack hangs so low that it shows up the penis, making it look smaller than it actually is. This phenomenon explains why I’m not a big fan of scrotum stretching exercises, because most men will wind up looking funny downstairs, especially if they’re hardcore about the stretching. But your situation is genetic, and unfortunately, you have no control over the genes you’re given at birth. And it’s these genes that determined your scrotal length, along with how far your sack is going to drop when your testicles become too warm.

This dropping and constricting of the scrotal sack is caused by something called the cremasteric reflex. I’ve discussed this at length in other posts, but here’s a quick rundown of the process…. Your body runs at a temperature of 98.6 degrees fahrenheit, but your testicles like things just a tad cooler because they function better in chilly weather. They produce more sperm, the sperm they produce is healthier and they also synthesize testosterone at a higher rate when they’re slightly colder than your core body temperature. Some men have a modest cremasteric reflex, where the testicles only drop slightly as the temps rise, while others will drop so much, they’ll feel like they’re about to drag on the floor. And once again, all of this was determined by the genes passed on to you by your parents. As far as solutions go, you have two options, scrotum reduction surgery or penile stretching exercises. The scrotum reduction surgery should only be considered if you’re dealing with pain caused by a short spermatic cord that doesn’t drop as far as your sack, leading to pain and discomfort…

Or if you frequently injure yourself while sitting on a bicycle, a hard chair or the toilet seat. If frequent injury or chronic pain isn’t a problem for you, I’d recommend that you do jelqing exercises to create better symmetry between your scrotal sack and your penis. This would be the ideal scenario for you if this is strictly a cosmetic issue, because the penile stretching will increase the size of your penis relative to your scrotal sack. Penis stretching does take time, especially to cement the gains permanently, but the good news for you is, your flaccid hang is where you’ll experience noticeable gains first.Best Flooring Options For Resale In other words, it takes a while to see gains while erect, but flaccid size comes on rather quickly.Top Down Bottom Up Roman Shade Hardware

If your main concern is how you look downstairs when you’re in the company of a woman, you can simply do a 3 minute stretching routine just before jumping in the sack. This is like an instant fix to your problem, and can done be almost anyplace where you can lock the door and gain a few minutes of privacy. If you do these routines consistently, you’ll find that this last step will be unnecessary after several weeks because that’s all it takes to see noticeable gains in your flaccid hang.Buy Laptops In Bulk From China You can find information on the web that will show you some basic stretching routines, or if you’d like detailed information, along with community, forums and support, you can try this.ALTHOUGH the inside of a typical toilet flush tank may look complicated, it is actually a fairly simple mechanism made up of two valve systems. One system uncovers a large opening at the bottom of the tank to send water rushing out into the bowl when the outside handle is pressed.

The other system opens a valve to allow water back into the tank to refill it for the next flush. While the system is not complicated, things can go wrong. Here is an explanation of how the toilet operates, and how to fix major problems. As shown in the ''before'' drawing of a typical old-fashioned tank mechanism, the opening at the bottom of the tank is sealed by a rubber ball so water cannot run out. This ball is held in place by the pressure of the water inside the tank. However, when you press the handle, the connecting linkage lifts the ball off its seat and water starts to rush out. This also allows the hollow ball to float to the top of the water. As the water level drops, so does this rubber ball - until it eventually drops back onto its seat to once again seal the opening at the bottom. While the water level is dropping, the large plastic or metal float ball at the top of the tank is also dropping, pulling down the arm that connects it to the inlet valve, which is called the ballcock.

The ballcock is the vertical valve assembly shown at the left side of the tank in the drawing. The float arm causes the inlet valve to open, allowing water to come pouring back into the tank to refill it. As soon as the tank ball at the bottom seals the opening, the water level starts rising again. The float ball rises with it, gradually shutting off the flow of water as the metal or plastic float ball reaches its original height. The flow of water stops completely when the tank is filled, making it ready for the next flush. All this is fine until something gets out of adjustment or breaks down. One common problem is a leaking float ball that doesn't float as high as it should; another is a rubber tank ball that is worn out or no longer seats properly at the bottom. Still another is a leaking ballcock. When water keeps running out of the tank into the bowl after the tank is full, or when the handle has to be jiggled repeatedly to make water stop running or to get the tank to fill properly, then some repairs or adjustments are required.

First you have to locate the exact cause of the problem, then make the needed repairs. The parts that wear out most often are the rubber tank ball at the bottom and the metal or plastic float ball that rides on top of the water. The most frequent cause of water's leaking out into the bowl is the failure of the rubber tank ball to seat properly at the bottom - either because the linkage and guide rods have become bent or have shifted slightly so that they no longer force the ball to fall exactly over the center of the seat, or because the rubber ball itself has badly deteriorated and needs replacement. Rather than trying to figure out the exact cause of the problem and then replacing parts with the same type of outmoded components, most homeowners and professional plumbers now find it simpler, and in the long run more efficient, to update the entire tank mechanism by taking out the old parts and installing units that are much quieter and simpler to maintain. The old ballcock mechanism and its attached float ball is the first thing to go.

A new ballcock (the inlet valve mechansim that refills the tank after it has been emptied by flushing) completely eliminates the need for a float ball and float arm. As indicated by the heavy arrow on the left of the ''after'' drawing, many of the new models have a built-in plastic float that rides up and down with the water so there is no need for a separate float ball and arm. There is also another type of ballcock that has no float at all; it sits on the bottom of the tank and senses water height by pressure (the amount of water above it) so that it too can open or shut the inlet valve as necessary without need for a separate float. Both types of ballcock will eliminate one frequent cause of trouble (the float ball and arm), and both are quieter in operation than most older-style ballcocks. In addition they tend to be more positive in operation - that is, they shut the water off and turn it on with a more definite action, rather than the gradual action of the float ball as it rises and lowers.

That's why there is usually less hissing from the tank as the water shuts off. Changing the ballcock takes care of the first half of the flush tank mechanism - the inlet valve system. The second valve inside the tank, the rubber tank ball at the bottom along with the various rods and guides that control its movement as it covers and uncovers the opening at the bottom of the tank, is the next thing to go. Nowadays the rubber tank ball is almost always replaced by a so-called flapper valve similar to the one indicated by the heavy black arrow on the right of the ''after'' drawing. A flapper valve is shaped like the bottom half of the old-style tank ball and it is also hollow, but it is attached to the lower end of the vertical overflow tube with a hinge that allows it to flip up and down. A chain is attached to it as shown, with the other end of the chain attached to the flushing lever or handle. When you press down on the handle on the outside, it lifts the flapper valve off its seat so water can rush out.

The flapper valve tries to float up, so it stays open till the water level drops low enough to allow it to flip closed. As the water level rises above it again, the pressure of the water serves to hold it closed until the next time the tank is flushed. The advantage of the flapper valve over the older-style rubber tank ball is that it has no lift rods and guide arms that can get out of alignment or that can stick and hold the tank ball off the bottom. The hinge holds it permanently in line with the seat and the lift chain will not affect alignment. As a result, there is much less chance of the flapper valve's failing to seat properly. Q. What is the best way to repair ''popped'' nails in dry wall prior to painting, and to prevent this from happening again? - S.S., Avon, Conn. A. Buy some large-head dry-wall nails that are ringed or ''threaded'' (these are designed to resist popping). Now drive the old nails back in until they are well below the surface, using a punch or nail set.

Then, while pressing the gypsum board hard to hold it tight against the studs, drive one of the new dry-wall nails in about two or three inches above or below the original nail. Use the hammer to drive the nail head just below the surface to create a slight dimple in the paper facing (without actually tearing or breaking the paper). Then fill these dimples, and the old nail holes, with joint cement. Q. During cold weather I notice that ice forms in my attic on the roofing nails that stick down through the wood sheathing. The only ventilation for that attic is a 1.5-square-foot gable vent at the opposite end of the house. There is no eave ventilation. Does it sound as if eave ventilation is needed? -D.A.K., Fair Haven, N.J. A. It certainly does. You should have gable vents at each end of the house, as well as along the eaves. Make sure when you install the eave vents that they are not being blocked by the insulation inside the attic. Questions about home repair should be addressed to Bernard Gladstone, The New York Times, 229 West 43d Street, New York, N.Y. 10036.