It’s hard to believe that it has been over a year already since Matt and I got engaged. It felt like we had so much time to plan the wedding and somehow, suddenly, it’s only 9 weeks away! We are doing pretty well planning-wise. We were able to get the big things nailed down back in March, while we were in Vermont, like the catering and the tent. The rest of it we have been able to work on from here, like the wedding website, “Save the Date” cards, invitations, having rings made and getting Matt’s suit ordered, etc.. All the while, I have been slowly working on my wedding dress and recently completed my second “wearable” muslin! I already did a regular muslin, out of actual muslin fabric, without seam finishes, sleeves, etc. and determined what adjustments to the pattern I wanted to make. Since I want my wedding dress to fit especially well and the actual fabric wasn’t exactly cheap, I wanted to make the dress all the way through, with my adjustments, to get a better idea of the fit.

I also wanted to see how it was finished and make sure it wasn’t going to be too hard for me. The pattern said “intermediate”, so I was a bit nervous that it would be outside my skill level. Surf Brand Car Seat CoversThere were some things I hadn’t done before, like french seams, but those turned out to be a cinch. Truck Seat Covers Nashville TnSewing the yoke to the sweetheart neckline was a bit challenging, but it wasn’t anything I couldn’t do.Puma Shoes Price In Italy When I got to the part where you attach the front and back bias binding (to the inside of the dress, to cover the raw edges), I found the directions a bit hard to understand. So I just did it the way I’ve done it for all the oven mitts I’ve made and it worked great! 

It was a real confidence booster that I just knew how to do it. See, I have learned some things in the past couple of years! The instructions have you do french seams at the shoulders if using “a delicate or mesh fabric”. This was my first time doing french seams and I thought they were going to be a lot harder and/or confusing to do then they were. It was a piece of cake, worked great and looks good with the black lace. I have the exact same lace, but in white, for my wedding dress. It’s not very fancy lace or anything. In fact, it was from Joann’s and was super cheap, so I was worried about it being scratchy against my skin, but it’s totally not. Between the french seams and the front and back bias binding (which I did in the rayon), there is no scratch factor at all! I had originally thought the cap sleeves would be more form-fitting around the shoulders than they turned out to be. I’m sure I could make adjustments to make them fit that way, but I like how they ruffle a bit, so I think I’ll just keep it how it is.

This was my first time making a wearable muslin. I usually just do a traditional muslin just to get a rough fit, make my adjustments to the pattern and then go straight to working on the actual garment. So I am really pleased with just how wearable this muslin is. I wasn’t expecting that. In fact, I have already worn it twice! I wore it once on my birthday and once out dancing. It is the perfect dancing dress as it swishes and twirls in all the right ways! It was a stashbuster too and was from the sale/remnant table at Pacific Fabrics, so it was cheap to begin with. The print is kind of crazy, but I love rayon (it is easy to work with and so comfy), so I had to grab this one. I knew I could find something to do with it! I think it was meant for this pattern, as I had just enough fabric. Plus, I think the black lace yoke cuts down the loudness of the print a bit. Matt keeps calling this my “practice dress” and I have started calling it that too, because it was great practice and I learned a lot from doing it.

I now know I love this pattern and the way it is finished and that it is within my skill level. Now I just have to make it all over again in white! It still feels a wee bit big in the bodice but, since there are no side bust darts, altering that will be easy. The pattern has you try on the dress before you install the zipper, so you can make any last minute adjustments to the fit then. I already have plans for a friend to come over and help me do a final fitting at that point. So take a good look at this dress. Now picture it in white lace and silk. Hold on to that thought, because you are not going to see this dress in full until after the wedding! I may do some progress updates and show some detail shots, but I have to keep something a surprise, don’t I? Add to Wish ListClose-fitting dresses have sweetheart neckline, double bodice, empire waist, princess seams, narrow shoulder straps, center back zipper, and optional ribbon trim with bow. Bolero-style jacket has lined front and back, wing lapels, princess seams, and three-quarter length sleeves with slits that can be worn folded up or down.

I often get questions asking how I get my bias faced necklines to lay flat, so I’m here today with a tutorial to help you do just that. It can be really frustrating to make a garment that looks so good only to have the neckline not lay right against the curves of the body, in fact, I’m pretty sure that was a telltale sign that I had made the garment I was wearing back in the day. So first off, if you’re wondering what a bias faced neckline is, it’s where the neckline if finished with a strip of bias fabric that is turned to the inside and stitched in place. It’s how I finished the necklines of both the Tiny Pocket Tank and the Scout Woven Tee. It’s really very easy, just a few extra steps and some pressing that are well worth it in the end. As usual with tutorials this is an image heavy post, so click the link below to view the entire tutorial. ▲ A quick note. This tutorial uses a 1″ wide bias piece with 1/4″ seam allowances to create a finished bias facing of 1/4″.

Sew and finish the side and shoulder seams and any other seams that will intersect the neckline.Making Your Bias Band Most patterns will include a pattern piece for the bias strip you will need to finish your neckline. If so, cut this out of your desired fabric and join at the center back. If you don’t have a pattern piece for whatever reason or you want to use ready made bias tape measure your neckline at the seam line and cut a bias piece about 1/8″ shorter than your measurement.Attaching the Bias Band Pin your bias band to the neckline at the center front and center back. Then pin around the sides of the neckline evenly distributing any excess you might have. Stitch around the neckline. Grade the seam allowance of the bias band to 1/8″, then clip to, but not through, the seamline all the way around the neckline. Press the bias facing away from the garment so that it is now on top of the clipped and graded seam allowance. Stitch through the seam allowance and bias facing about 1/8″ away from the seam line.

Understitching will help the seam roll neatly to the inside of the garment so that no seams or binding are visible on the front of your garment. Press the bias facing to the inside of the garment rolling the seam to the inside as well. Fold the 1/4″ seam allowance under and press flat. I find it easiest to press the neckline on a ham during these steps since it echoes the finished curve of the neckline. Pin the bias facing in place as you work around the neckline. Stitch the binding down with a 1/4″ seam allowance or as close to the folded edge as you feel comfortable. Give the neckline a final pressing all the way around to smooth out the neckline. Pop on your garment and admire your beautiful neckline! You might want to do a better job clipping your threads than I did here though. Too bad I’m no good at Photoshop or I could retroactively fix that. As usual, if you have any questions, comments or whatever leave a note below. This is of course one of many methods to finish a neckline with a bias facing, it just happens to be my preferred method.