When remodeling a bathroom, replacing the shower knobs is a must. Even if you are not remodeling your bathroom, replacing the shower knobs can breathe life into the room. The process of installing shower knobs is much simpler than you might think. Read the following guide for a description of the installation process. Purchasing your new shower knobs is a task that is a bit more complicated than it seems. You must be sure that your new knobs will work with your bathroom fixtures. Before you go shopping for new knobs, first determine the brand of your bathroom fixtures. If you cannot determine the brand, there are universal knobs that you can buy. Shower knobs come in a wide variety of styles and colors, so it is also important to keep in mind the look you want to achieve in your bathroom. If you are remodeling, it may be helpful to purchase the knobs when you are purchasing other replacement fixtures, such as cabinet handles. If you are only replacing the shower knobs, you may find it helpful to bring a picture of your bathroom along with you to the home improvement store.

Before beginning your project, turn off the water to the whole house by closing the valve at the water meter. Doing so will help you avoid any leaks. Examine your shower knobs for a small screw, usually in the center. If you can't find a screw, chances are that it is hidden by a decorative cover. You will have to remove the cover in order to unscrew the shower knobs. You can push your flathead screwdriver under the decorative cover in order to dislodge it. Once the cover is off, remove the screw. Once you loosen and remove the screw, you can remove the knob. Remember to pull it towards yourself. Don't jerk it to the side. Installing new knobs is easy. Simply push your new knobs onto the areas from which you pulled the old knobs. Be careful not to mix the hot and cold water; going to could lead to a nasty shock! Almost universally, the left knob corresponds to hot water and the right knob to cold water, but a small number of homes are built contrary to the norm. Once you push the knobs on, you can add the screws.

Be sure that your new knobs are secure, but do not tighten them to such an extent that it will be very difficult to unscrew for future maintenance. When the knobs are screwed into place, you can affix any decorative covers or pieces that were included with them. • Shut off the water under the sink. • Close the sink drain; cover it with a rag to catch dropped parts. • Tape the jaws of your wrench with a layer of duct tape to avoid scratching the fixture.Small Breed Puppies For Sale In Portland Oregon • Establish a place to lay out parts in order of removal.Best Air Compressor For Hardwood Flooring • Use distilled white vinegar and a soft scouring pad for removing mineral deposits on faucet parts.La Vie Outdoor Furniture

There are four kinds of faucets: compression, cartridge (sleeve), ceramic disk, and ball type. Each type is illustrated here. Except for the ball-type faucet, there are two illustrations for each. The less detailed version will identify the kind you have. The more detailed one will help as you make repairs. A compression faucet relies on rubber washers to seal the valve seat. Rubber washers wear out and must be replaced occasionally. The other types, often called washerless faucets, last longer but they too can develop leaks. When these cartridge, ceramic-disk or ball-type faucets leak, you can either replace the O-ring or neoprene seal that's causing the leak or replace the entire assembly for less than $20. Most leaky compression faucets need new seat washers. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, pull off the handle and use a crescent wrench to unscrew the packing nut. After unscrewing the stem, remove and replace the seat washer held in place by a brass screw.

Coat the washers with nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease. Pop the stem out of the packing nut and replace the O-ring, the culprit for leaky handles. O-rings range in size from 3/8 to 5/8 in., so it's crucial to exactly match the size on your faucet. Coat the new O-ring with the plumber's grease. Reassemble the faucet and tighten the packing nut. If your faucet continues to leak, the seat may be pitted. Remove the stem and grind smooth the valve seat with a valve-seat dresser, a tool you temporarily screw down into the faucet. This type of faucet contains a lot of parts, and that often makes it difficult to find the cause of the leak. You can avoid the aggravation by buying a replacement kit and putting in all new parts. First, remove the handle set screw and lift off the handle. Use adjustable pliers to remove the cap and collar. Using the special tool included in the faucet-repair kit, loosen the faucet cam and lift it out along with the cam washer and the rotating ball.

Reach into the faucet body with needle-nose pliers and remove the inlet seals and springs. Next, cut off the O-rings, coat the new ones in nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease and roll them on. Install new springs, valve seats and cam washers as you reassemble the faucet. Another more expensive option for an older faucet is to replace the entire fixture. You'll need a basin wrench to do this. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, tilt the handle back and pull it off. If there's a threaded retaining clip holding the cartridge in place, use needle-nose pliers to remove it, and then pull the cartridge straight up. Remove the spout and cut off the old O-rings using a utility knife. After coating the new O-rings with nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease, reassemble the unit. To replace the entire cartridge ($10 to $15), match the length of yours to the replacement cartridge length. Also match the stem end where the handle attaches. Push the faucet handle back to access the set screw.