Welcome to Steve Baxter Bath Re surfacing Steve Baxter Bath Re-Enamelling will resurface your bath in your home without the need for removal. I offer the highest standard of bath resurfacing in the Midlands, using the best quality coating's from the USA. With over 23 years experience, you will get the highest quality job with a friendly service. I want you to recommend us after you have used us, and so with that in mind, every job is finished with the upmost professionalism. I cover the whole of the Midlands and will leave your bath looking and feeling as though it had just come from the showroom: So, whether you live in a castle, or in an old council house, every job is done to the same high standards. © 2016 Steve Baxter Bath Resurfacing. High-quality bathtubs—and a variety of other plumbing fixtures—have surfaces made of porcelain (or “vitreous”) enamel. This enamel is the result of fusing powdered glass onto a base or metal, glass, or tile at a very high temperature—typically 750 to 850 degrees C.

As the glass powder melts, it flows evenly across the surface, eventually cooling to form a very hard, smooth, durable finish that can be plain white or brilliantly colorful. This type of finish is used on products ranging from bathtubs and sinks to appliances and tile. When cleaning a porcelain enamel surface, it’s important to keep in mind that the material is extremely hard, but still can be chipped by hard blows, or damaged by harsh abrasives and long-term use of acids. Cost Of Installing A Commercial KitchenSmall chips and dings can be repaired with an inexpensive porcelain touch-up solution, available online and at home-improvement centers (be sure to choose the color that is a perfect match).Used Hotel Furniture San Jose Wash porcelain with a dilute mixture of warm water and detergent. Bathroom Mirror For Rv

A pasty solution of warm water with baking soda will help remove dirt and soap scum. Commercial bathroom or surface cleaners also can be used. Chlorine or hydrogen peroxide bleach works well at removing tough stains. Always dilute them before using, and rinse them off after a few seconds of use. Bleaches won’t work on removing rust. Be sure to wear gloves. You can remove heavy deposits of dirt, grease, or soap scum with a solution of 1 tablespoon of a TSP (trisodium phosphate) substitute mixed with 1 gallon of hot water. Do not combine this with other cleaners. Most scouring powders have hard, sharp particles that make tiny scratches in the surface. These scratches will catch dirt, grease, hard water deposits, and soap residue. Then more abrasives are needed to remove these imbedded soils. Avoid using scouring powders, but if you must use an abrasive to remove a particularly stubborn stain, use the finest scouring powder you can find. Acetic and muriatic acids can be used to remove some stains, but they can slowly disintegrate the surface coating of porcelain enamel, eventually attacking its metallic base.

If you use an acid, be sure to wear rubber gloves. After cleaning with any of these methods, always rinse the surface thoroughly with clean water. NEXT SEE: Repairing Bathtub Surfaces Featured Resource: Find a Local Bathtub Resurfacing Pro We're going to be putting in a new tub, and I'm not sure what to get. My concern with the cast iron (other than lugging it up the stairs) is the rust problem. How well does acrylic hold up? Cast iron tubs are very heavy and expensive. Rust is not a problem with cast iron tubs as long as the enamel top layer is intact (if you get a chip in it, you can get enamel repair kits). My wife did not like the old cast iron tub in our bathroom because it was cold when standing in it during a shower and made bath water get cold fast. Evidently she was not taking baths in the “cast iron method” which is to put super-hot water into the bathtub and allow the heat to transfer into the tub, this will cool the water down but keep it at a reasonable temperature longer (in theory at least, YMMV).

Enameled steel it basically a cheaper version of the cast iron, it is a lighter because the metal is much thinner. I doubt the “hot bath trick” described above for cast iron tubs will work in a steel tub. Like cast iron tubs, you should not have to worry about a steel tub rusting or cracking. Acrylic (plastic) tubs come in a different quality levels. Some are really cheap, thin plastic that have the potential to crack over time (particularly if they are poorly supported/improperly installed). However some acrylic tubs use thicker stronger plastic (often with fiber glass embedded for tensile strength) that are very sturdy. I recently had to make this decision; we replaced our cast iron tub with plastic Kohler model. I knew I did not want to lug a cast iron tub up to the 2nd story. I thought about a steel tub but they are still 120-150 pounds. I was worried about getting a cheap plastic one that would break so I settled on a $700 plastic Kohler tub that is pretty thick.

Many shapes and colors High gloss finish that lasts Good insulator, keeps water warm Scratches can be repaired Resistant to acid, corrosion, and abrasions Can be damaged by impact Surface may chip and rust Cast iron is the most desirable for a bath tub. It's withstood the test of time for centuries. Enameled steel has a cheap drumming sound to it. Americast (an American Standard acrylic product) is far better than those cheap fiberglass tubs, but also chips. Fiberglass flexes and, unless you've bought the entire wall kit (which is cheezy), will continue to give you fits where the tub perimeter meets the tile. There's always trade offs. If it's your forever house, I'd do the cast iron. Of the lot, it has the most durable finish and, unless you're prone to drop hammers in it, will probably outlast you. Usually a cast iron tub fails - not because of the material - but due to improper installation, using harsh cleaning products on the surfaces, or damage from impact.