Dispatched from and sold by Cyclaire. Shop Home Automation, DIY, Kitchen, Toys and more on Amazon Launchpad: House SteadySeat quick & easy fix for loose or wobbly toilet seats, seat stoppers buffers, No tools necessary. Now includes sticky pads and screws / pilot holes to attach more easily to more toilet seats 4 RUBBER NON SLIP TOILET SEAT HINGE FITTINGS. ENOUGH RUBBER FITTINGS TO SECURE TWO LOOSE TOILET… 5,634 in Kitchen & Home (See top 100) in Kitchen & Home > Bathroom > Bathroom Accessories > Toilet Accessories > Toilet Seats Date First Available3 Jun. 2014 In response to customer feedback, steadyseat is now supplied with sticky pads and also has pilot holes and includes screws too. For materials where the sticky pad might not work, the screws will. Toilet seats have an inherent design flaw: they work loose & wobble. Steady Seat fixes that quickly and easily, even if you are only as "good" at DIY as we are! Over the course of time the toilet seat works loose.

This causes it to move, wobble or rock when in use. This is always annoying, often causes inconvenience and can sometimes lead to the seat breaking, or even cause an injury to the sitter! We have created a simple but effective and very easy to fit attachment that solves this problem once and for all. Ladies & Gentlemen, we proudly present The Steady Seat! We worked hard to come up with a design that was as universal as possible, that would work with many combinations of bowl and seat. We made sure that proper cleaning of the toilet was still possible when The Steady Seat was in place. We made sure that The Steady Seat could be fitted very easily, with no tools required and a simple way of positioning The Steady Seat correctly. If you don't have a problem with your toilet seat, we bet you know someone who does! And, of course, you can fit a Steady Seat now to save a problem in the future. Whilst we have worked hard to ensure that The Steady Seat will work with a wide range of seat / bowl combinations, there are some for which The Steady Seat is simply not suitable in its current form.

Essentially the seat requires a flat underside to which The Steady Seat can stick. If the underside of the seat is hollowed then, in it's current form, The Steady Seat will not work as effectively. Direct Purchases from the steadyseat website receive a free toilet seat / toilet lid lifter.ENOUGH RUBBER FITTINGS TO SECURE TWO LOOSE TOILET SEATS. FOR CHROME AND BRASS HINGES ON WOODEN, RESIN, PLASTIC, MAHOGANY,WHITE, OAK & NOVELTY SEATS. Safe-T-Bumpers Toilet Seat Stabilizers See all 108 customer reviews See all 108 customer reviews (newest first) Stops the seat moving Such a simple solution. I know I put it on wonky but you can't see it (and it's inside the bowl). Made a very, very annoying toilet visit into one I newly find a pleasure. This product works well. The sticky pads are only useful for placing prior to putting in the screws, but one fell into the bowl and had to be retrieved.With the sticky pads and screws a doddle to fit as well. Stops my seat moving now so does the job wished I'd found them long ago .

Doesn't fit onto my glitter toilet seat. Absolute rubbish don't buy them .I'm wanting a refund Would have given it 5 stars but the screw are too short. I had to get my own that were 5 mm longer, the ones that came with it kept pulling out at the slightest pressure.Breaker Size For Ac Unit Poor quality very diserpointedWhere To Buy Soccer Cleats In Minneapolis See and discover other items: toilet seatsLaptop Tablet Combo Amazon DIY & Tools > Kitchen & Bath Fixtures > Bathroom Fixtures > Toilet SeatsThanks are due to many on alt.home.repair for this consolidation of suggestions. If the screw head sticks up enough you may be able to grab it with a pair of ViseGrip suggestions apply largely to screws screwed into metal

Drop on a little Kroil, Liquid Wrench or some other penetrating oil or WD-40, and let this soak in for several minutes--overnight if it doesn't work the first time. will do the trick. Consider the implications of the following suggestions before trying them.  hitting a screw in a ceramic object like a toilet bowl can break or damage the object.  Heat can harm a variety of materials. Now insert the correct size screwdriver and hit it a couple of times with a hammer. trying to break the screw loose from is surrounding metal. Now see if it will unscrew. striking the screwdriver again, this time while pressing and turning. If it's a through bolt with a nut, hitting the head won't help. You will have to hit the bolt where it sticks through the nut. this case, take care not to foul the threads. If you can safely heat it without damaging the nearby area, or setting something on fire, get theTry a butane pencil torch (not so hot you remove the temper) or soldering iron, etc.

If you have nothing else try the tip of an empty hot glue gun or a heat gun. The more you can heat the screw without heating the area around it the better--you're hoping the screw will expand more or faster than the area around it and this will break it loose. Heat is much more likely to work but, if you're reluctant to use heat, try ice--better yet, dry ice. A temperature difference isHeat/chill the nut on a through bolt. After it's cooled (penetrating oils are flammable) go back and start at step one above. In a case like a screw in a electrical cover plate that's been painted over, you probably just want to break away the plate and remove the screw with pliers. If none of this works the next thing to try is a gadget called an impact screwdriver if you can beg, borrow, or want to buy one. This won't work for a through bolt. An impact screwdriver is designed to rotate the screwdriver tip when the handle is hit with a hammer. So, the tip is forced

into the screw head by the hammer blow at the same time the tip is being rotated to loosen theIf you have a motorcyclist friend she may have one. If the screw is in cast iron, or something else you could break by hitting it, you may not want to use this. I've never tried this but it may work. It called Screw Grab.[NOTE: If you have already stripped the head and you have access to a Dremel tool, you may be able to grind a narrow slot in the head of the screw, then use a flat blade screw driver and one of the following methods to remove it.] If your problem is a nut instead of screw you may want to try a nut cracker. A gadget that splits the nut into. Your last resorts are destructive and it's hard to advise you what to try first. to all the destructive approaches, because they can make other methods impossible. There are screw extractors.  A new design that I've begun reading good things about is called screw extractors are called Easy Outs, based on an early brand name.

They are like sharp pointed screws with backwards (left hand) threads so they tighten in the direction the screwYou drill a small hole in the screw-head and then start screwing the Easy Out into thisWhen it gets tight in the screw-head (remember you're turning it backwards--counterclockwise) the screw starts unscrewing. When Easy Outs work they're really great, but occasionally they break and leave you worse off because it leaves a piece of hardened steel in the screw which you may not be able to drill out. David Moses says, "I'm a retired appliance Tech. frozen screw that nothing else will handle, try this: Use a chisel and a hammer. on the rim and make a grove with the chisel. Keep hitting it counter clockwise to force screw toIf it's a through bolt you will have to hold the nut somehow." says, "Sometimes it's just the head that's rusted, and if you drill away the head the body of the screw will come out easily with pliers.

gone and drilled away the head, the best thing to do is to just drill out the screw with a drill a little smaller than the screw diameter. Usually once you drill about halfway into the screw it comes loose and comes out easily." Dan Hicks again -- "Maybe you can grind the head off with a Dremel tool.  After you remove the object it was holding, maybe there'll be enough screw exposed you can get ViceGrips on Here's a sort of combination drill and Easy Out approach suggested by Tekkie "I got a set of left hand drills from the Snap-on guy for just this problem. They help the cause... Just gotta remember to reverse the drill first!" Go to the hardware store, and get a cheap screwdriver that is the right size, and a tube ofAt home, clean out the head of the screw as well as possible, and SuperGlue the screwdriver into the screw head. You should be able to remove the screw. will (eventually - may take a few hours) dissolve the SuperGlue if you need the screw back.

Note that this works best *before* you destroy the screw head. It'll work on a damaged screw, but not as well. last time I had this problem I drilled through the screw head and then broke it off. Start by drilling a little way (1/2"?) into the center of the head with a small bit (3/32"-1/8") to create a pilot/guide hole. Then drill down the guide hole with a larger bit (3/16"?) until you get through the head, and just barely into the screw body. Keep redrilling, increasing the drill size until you reach the bolt diameter. If the screw starts to turn with the drill bit, have someone hold the nut on the bottom with a pair of pliers. The bottom nut may be a wing nut. Now try to get something like a screwdriver or strong knife blade under the edge of the screw head and pry up on it. If your hole is large and deep enough it will break off easily. The rest of the bolt should fall out or you can remove it from underneath. I had the bolt broke off and fell to the floor when I was drilling.