Determine which side of your faucet is leaking by shutting off the water supply valves one at a time. If the leak doesn’t stop after the first valve is turned off, it’s the other line that’s leaking. Once you determine which side is leaking, turn off both supply valves. If your valves are stuck, shut off the water main. You will have to replace hardware for both sides since you won’t be able to identify whether the hot or cold side is leaking. Disassemble the Old Faucet Turn faucet handles to the “on” position to release any residual water. Close the drain and place a towel in the sink to protect the surface and catch any dropped parts. Remove the aerator and inspect it for damage. If it’s stuck, soak a towel in vinegar and wrap it around the aerator to help loosen mineral deposits. After an hour, gently twist the aerator with a towel and pliers. As you disassemble the old faucet, lay the parts in order on a flat surface and snap a picture for reference.

Then, put those parts in a plastic bag and take them to the store with you when shopping. You may only require one part, but it may be best to buy a kit and replace everything, including a new aerator if yours is damaged. This type of faucet uses a cylinder with tiny discs on the bottom that control water flow. The most successful repair typically replaces the entire cylinder. Loosen the set screw and remove the handle. Unscrew the retainer nut or mounting screw and pull out the cylinder. Set a new cylinder into place and reassemble the faucet. With the faucet knobs in the “on” position, slowly turn on the water supply. Too much initial pressure can damage the new hardware. Compression & Reverse-compression Faucets In this repair, you’ll replace the washer and O-ring or gasket on the valve stem, as well as the valve seat in the faucet. Remove handles or knobs by prying off the temperature indicator cap and removing the screw. Pull the handles off the base.

Some handles are removed by backing out a set screw. Loosen the retaining screw with a wrench and take out the valve stem. On the stem, remove the screw, washer and old O-ring. Add plumber’s grease to the stem and install a new O-ring and washer. Remove the valve seat with a seat or hex wrench and insert a new one. Unscrew the set screw to remove the handle. Remove the retaining clip or nut. Gently pull out the cartridge and replace it with a new oneWith the faucet knobs in the “on” position, slowly turn on the water supply. Good to KnowWhile you have the faucet disassembled, it's a good idea to replace the seats and springs below the cartridge.  They're inexpensive and adding new ones should ensure your repair is complete. After reassembling your faucet, run the water for a few minutes to clear debris from the new parts. If your old aerator needs cleaning, soak it in white vinegar to remove buildup and deposits. Rinse it before installation.

When that drip, drip, drip threatens to send you over the edge, some people call the plumber. And some people (you know who you are) get out their tools and tackle it themselves. In this video, Delta’s own Mr. Fix-it, Mark Oliver, demonstrates how to repair a leaky faucet.Edit ArticleHow to Fix a Leaky Faucet Five Parts:Getting StartedFixing a Compression FaucetFixing a Ball FaucetFixing a Cartridge FaucetFixing a Ceramic-Disk FaucetCommunity Q&ABuy Canopy Drapes The annoying drip of a leaky faucet can cause higher water bills and irritation. Yorkies For Sale In New Castle PaFortunately, it's easy to fix yourself if you can identify the type of faucet and get the necessary tools for the job. Pool Sand Filter Parts ListWhy pay a plumber when you can fix a leaky faucet yourself?

To fix leaks on the four most common types of faucet, follow these instructions. Turn off the water to your faucet. Look underneath your sink for the pipes that run up. Along those pipes somewhere will be handles that you can turn to shut off the water to your sink. Twist clockwise to shut off.Use a sink plug if you have one or a rag. Nothing will ruin your day faster than having a screw or a washer go down the drain. Determine what type of faucet you have. A compression faucet has two screw handles, one for hot and one for cold, and is the easiest to recognize by sight. The other three types of faucet all have one central, swiveling arm that you can swing from hot to cold as desired.[1] You may have to take your faucet apart before you know which is which, because the internal mechanisms at the base of their arms are all different: A ball faucet contains a ball bearing. A cartridge faucet contains a cartridge. The materials of the cartridge will vary, but handle often has a decorative cap.

A ceramic-disk faucet contains a ceramic cylinder.Pry off the decorative cap if necessary (usually reading “Hot” or “Cold”), unscrew, and remove the handle. Use a wrench to remove the nut. Underneath, you will find the stem, which sits on top of the O-ring, which sits on top of a seat washer. The seat washer is usually made of rubber, which can get worn out after a while. If your faucet is dripping, this is mostly likely the culprit. Pull out the stem. This will expose the O-ring, which will be thinner, and seat washer, which will be thicker. If the handles are leaky (as opposed to the faucet), replace the O-ring. Take the old one to the hardware store and use it to find a replacement. Remove the seat washer. This will be held in place with an upside-down brass screw. Replace the seat washer. Since these washers vary in size, you might need to bring the old one in with you to a parts store to find an exact match. Coat the replacement in plumber’s grease before installing it.

Any minor leaks should now be fixed. Buy a replacement kit. Start by unscrewing and removing the handle. Use pliers to remove the cap and collar. Also, loosen the faucet cam by using the tool provided in your replacement kit for this purpose. Remove the faucet cam, washer, and ball. This will look like a "ball and socket" joint in your body--a movable (usually white) rubber ball plugs the socket, stopping up the water and releasing it. Remove the inlet seals and springs. Install new springs, valve seats, and cam washers. Remove the retaining clip if necessary. Pull the cartridge so that it stands straight up. Remove the faucet spout. Remove the escutcheon cap. Unscrew and remove the disk cylinder. Pry out the seals and clean the cylinders. Replace the seals if necessary. Reassemble the handle and very slowly turn the water on. If you notice a lot of lime build-up on the faucet handle post, clean it off with a lime-away product.