How to Lay a Floating Floor This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shares his tips and techniques for putting down a floating floor In this video, This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shares his tips and techniques for putting down a floating floor.Cover the subfloor with a foam pad; staple the pad in place with a hammer tacker.2. Set first plank in place with the tongue edge facing the wall or baseboard molding.3. Tap together the planks in the first row, end to end. Be sure to use a tapping block to prevent damaging the flooring.4. Install the planks in the second row, making sure you stagger the end joints from the previous row.5. Hold the planks at a slight angle and tap them into the first-row planks with a dead-blow hammer.6. Insert spacer blocks between the flooring and wall or baseboard to create an expansion space.7. Use a jamb saw to trim door casing so the flooring will slip underneath.8. Set plank in front of doorway and use scribing tool to transfer cut lines from the doorway to the plank.9.

Cut the plank to size with a jigsaw.10. Tap the plank into the doorway, making sure it slips under the casings. 11. Continue installing planks across the room. When necessary, use a pull bar to tap the joints tight between the planks.12. Once all the flooring is installed, remove the spacer blocks and nail shoe molding around the room perimeter. 45 Adapter T ShirtBe sure to nail the shoe to the baseboard, not the floor.Custom Bathroom Mirror Los Angeles Tools List for How to Lay a Floating FloorDeck Around Hot Tub Access Panel Utility knife, used to cut foam pad to size Hammer tacker and 3/8-inch staples, for stapling foam pad to wood subfloor Dead-blow hammer and tapping block, used to tap together flooring planks

Jamb saw, for trimming door casings and jambs Scribe tool, used to scribe planks to fit around doorways and obstructions Jigsaw, for cutting planks to size Pull bar, used with hammer to pull planks into position Floating floor, snap-together, tongue-and-groove floor planks Foam pad, used under flooring as a moisture barrier and to provide cushioningSpacer blocks, maintains expansion space between flooring and walls or baseboard trim Shoe molding, used to conceal the expansion space around the perimeter of the floor Foyer and mudroom floors – best options Escorting you in and out of the home multiple times each day, the foyer is a high traffic area. Choosing a flooring material for this space needs to take into consideration both its durability and ease of maintenance, yet without compromising design.The products on the market today are diverse from the real-deals to the bountiful (and quite impressive!) imitations. Be sure to check out all of the products—even one’s you think are out of the question—before making your final decision.

Regardless of your style or budget, you are sure to find a flooring material to lay the foundation for the rest of your home after reading this guide. Take the time to understand the advantages and disadvantages of each, and you’re sure to be happy with your selection for years to come. Foyer and mudroom floors – best optionsLiving SpacesThe traditional rule of thumb is to measure the seating area and select a rug the next closest size up. This allows all of the furniture legs to rest on the rug for a unified look.For a more modern look, break the rules using smaller rugs that fit the front furniture legs (or no furniture legs) can look great, too.Try filling the entire room with your rug. To do so, measure your room and select a size that allows for 2 feet of floor space to show on the rug’s perimeter.You can also layer rugs. A smaller rug atop a larger one helps define seating areas and creates visual interest. Use carpet tape to keep the rug safely in place.Good to KnowUse furniture coasters under furniture legs to protect your rug.

Good to KnowTo get an idea of how a certain size rug would look in your space, lay a bedsheet folded to that size on the floor where you're considering a rug.Dining AreasFor the best area rug fit in your dining area, measure the length and width of the table and choose a rug that’s at least 2 feet larger on each side. This allows ample room for your guests’ chairs to sit comfortably on the rug.KitchenRugs in front of the sink or stove help ease pain in the feet, legs and lower back. Whether you choose individual rugs or a stylish runner, keep it about 6 inches away from the cabinets. If your rug doesn’t have a slip-resistant backing, a rug pad can help prevent slips and falls.BedroomUse an area rug to make the bed the focal point of the bedroom. Measure the space for a rug that extends 24 inches to each side of the bed, unless it’s on a wall. And don’t be afraid to layer rugs.Another option is to use a runner along each side of the bed – on hard floors or atop existing carpeting – to create a soft, warm place for your feet in the morning.

EntrywaysThe right rug makes a great first impression. Look for something wider than the doorway for comfortable greetings and departures.Hallways and PassagewaysA runner is the ideal solution for hallways and passageways. Make sure you have 6 inches of floor space on all sides of the runner for the most comfortable fit.ShapesDon’t be afraid to use shapes other than rectangle. Round rugs are great for seating vignettes, passageways and entrances. Also consider square rugs, runners, oblong or animal-skin shaped rugs.ColorsTo coordinate your rug color with an existing color palette, follow the 60-30-10 rule. About 60% of the room is your dominant color; such as the walls or the largest piece of furniture. 30% is a secondary color - this is where your rug color choice comes in. And, finally, 10% is an accent color, such as vases and lamps. Accents should be a color from the rug that isn’t dominant or secondary so the entire room fits together nicely.PatternBefore selecting a patterned rug, consider your space.

Do you have patterned walls or furniture? If so, it might be best to choose a subtly patterned rug. If your space is filled with solid color, a bold or bright pattern may liven things up.TrafficWhen buying an area rug, consider foot traffic. Low pile works best in high-traffic areas, as it hides tracks a little easier. A detailed pattern is also helpful in high-traffic areas, as it helps hide stains (shown).High-pile rugs are soft, making them great for bedrooms and sitting areas.Natural vs. Synthetic FibersBefore buying a rug, consider the material it’s made of. Natural fibers, such as wool or cotton, look beautiful and feel great, but some are more susceptible to staining and fading. More-affordable synthetic rugs resist staining and fading better.Learning the LingoEliminate confusion from your shopping trip by learning a few key terms.Hand-Carved - Using hand shears, the weaver cuts a design into the rug. The carving gives the rug a unique look.Hand-Hooked - The weaver pushes a hooking tool through the foundation cloth to the front of the rug, then pulls the yarn to the back, leaving a loop on the surface.

Hand-Knotted - Each knot is individually tied by hand. These knots are single strands of yarn that have been looped around two adjacent warp threads.Hand-Tufted - An inked-on foundation cloth is stretched over a loom. Then a manually operated hand-tufting gun pushes the yarn through the back of the cloth to form the pile. When the rug is taken off the loom, a scrim and layer of latex are placed on the back, and backcloth is then sewed onto the latex and scrim to protect your floors.Heat Set - This is a process polypropylene goes through to put a twist in the yarn. When the yarn is set with heat, it has a wool-like appearance.Jacquard - A design produced by a mechanized loom that has a belt of punched cards. The holes in the card are arranged to produce the weave of the rug.Line Count - One indicator of rug quality is the number of knots or stitches per square inch. The higher the count, the higher the quality. This number may be calculated differently, depending on materials used, assembly techniques and whether the rug is domestic or imported.

Pile - This is the surface yarn that makes up the face of the rug.Stitches / Needle Count - The number of loops of yarn is known as the stitch or needle count. The higher the stitch or needle count, the denser the rug. Higher-density rugs last longer and wear better than more loosely woven constructions.Warp and Wefts - The warp yarn is the stationary thread on the loom. These fibers are the strongest part of the rug. They're intersected with wefts — the filling yarn that's woven though the warps.Wilton Loom - These rugs bear a close resemblance to hand-knotted rugs but are machine made. The pile is woven between two backings and then split down the middle so you get two separate rugs.Select Your Rug PadRug pads keep your rug properly positioned, preventing it from slipping. Rug pads also:Reduce wear and tear on the rugHelp to absorb the impact of feet and noiseMake vacuuming your rug easierProtect smooth-surface flooring, like hardwood and laminate, from being scratched by the back of the rugFor rugs placed over carpet, use carpet tape or a rug pad.