ALTHOUGH an ordinary hammer-in type picture hanger - the kind with a nail that goes through the top of a hook and then into the plaster or wallboard at a downward angle - may be adequate for hanging a small mirror, and many medium to large size pictures, these hangers are not really suitable for a large wall mirror or a sizable painting with a really heavy frame. These picture hangers depend for their holding power on the ''tear strength'' or ''crack resistance'' of the plaster or wallboard into which the nail is driven, and this cannot be relied upon to support heavy loads. In some cases the homeowner or apartment dweller faced with the task of hanging a heavy mirror (or a large framed picture) can get by with using two such picture hangers, spacing them a few inches apart so that the load is spread over the two hangers instead of all the weight being carried by one. But even here, you are depending on the strength of the plaster or wallboard to carry the weight - a doubtful practice when a heavy load must be supported, and when something as breakable as a mirror is involved.

In other cases the mirror can be hung by driving screws or large nails directly into the 2x4 studs inside the wall, instead of just fastening into the plaster or wallboard. Best Mud Run Shoes 2015Fasteners driven into solid wood will hold sizable loads if the hook or nail is large enough and if the wood is not badly cracked or split.Washer And Dryer Sales In San Diego However, this hanging technique is only feasible if one of the wall studs is located just where you want the mirror to go - in other words, where you can center the mirror over the stud. Copper Kitchen Towel BarUnfortunately, this seldom works out right; more often than not there is no stud just where you want to hang your mirror or large picture frame. The accompanying drawings illustrate two simple methods of solving this problem.

One method is used with those mirrors (and most picture frames) that have a wire across the back for hanging over a hook. The other method is used with really large mirrors that have holes drilled in each corner for mounting so that you can screw it flat against the wall's surface. In the first drawing, a 3- or 4-inch wide board is fastened to the wall first by nailing or screwing it directly to the studs, as shown. Center it where you want the picture or mirror to go without regard to how this matches the spacing of the studs. Just try to nail it to at least two studs, even if it is not centered over them. Then you can hang your mirror from this board as shown. This technique is mainly used where the mirror is more than 16 inches wide (the usual spacing between wall studs) so that the board will span more than one stud. The board is cut slightly shorter than the width of the mirror so it won't stick out on each side when the mirror is hung over it, and so it can be centered over the spot where the mirror is to be hung.

Then fasten two hooks to the face of the board so you can hang the wire on back of the mirror over these. The second method - for mirrors that have holes drilled in each of the four corners - uses toggle bolts or expansion-type wall anchors to hold the mirror in place against the wall. However, for really large, heavy mirrors, it is best to play safe and provide a solid support by fastening a narrow board or strip of wide molding to the wall directly under the mirror to carry the weight. For maximum support use two strips of wood, one wider than the other, to create a lipped channel or groove in which the mirror can rest, as indicated in the illustration. With this carrying the weight along the bottom you can leave out the toggle bolts or anchors along the bottom if you wish. In this case only the top of the mirror has to be fastened against the wall because the bottom will be fully supported by the wood strips that are fastened to the studs with nails or screws. However, using the fasteners at the bottom of very large mirrors will provide an extra safety factor.

Some may prefer to use another wood channel along the top of the mirror, as well as along the bottom. That way you don't have to use toggle bolts or anchors at all to hold the mirror in place. And you eliminate the possibility of cracking the mirror by overtightening the bolts (a potential hazard when walls are very rough or uneven). To make the wood channels less noticeable, the wood strips can be painted to match the walls. Answering the Mail Q. We installed insulation in our attic and were careful not to block the vent space around the eaves when the insulation was put down. Then we had new asphalt roof shingles put down over the old shingles. When the weather was cold we noticed moisture dripping down from the nails the roofer used - these stick down about 3/4-inch on the inside. Is this moisture due to water leaking in along the nail holes, or could it be condensation from the inside? - Mrs. R.R.V., Chatham, N.J. A. Chances are it is condensation. Metal is a good conductor, so the nails get very cold when it is cold on the outside.

When this happens any moisture in the air inside the attic condenses on the cold metal. That is one reason most experts advise not using nails that are so long they stick through on the inside. You can probably eliminate much of this condensation by improving the ventilation in the attic. Your letter says the vent openings along the eaves are open, but you probably also need vents along the ridge or in each of the peaks to provide better through ventilation for the attic. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Questions about home repair problems should be addressed to Bernard Gladstone, The New York Times, 229 West 43d Street, New York, N.Y. 10036. Buying a mirror or piece of wall art is the easy part. Not always a smooth process. Factors such as the material of your wall and the weight of your mirror or picture affect the suitability of certain hooks and hanging locations. However, our helpful hanging guide below will leave you clued up: Before You Start Before hanging your wall mirror or picture, there are a number of things you'll need to know including:✓ What your walls are made of - this will affect the types of hooks you'll need and will determine whether it's strong enough to support your mirror or picture.✓ Whether your mirror or picture already has fittings attached.✓ Instructions – did your mirror or picture come with a hanging

manual?✓ Screws and tools – do you have the right ones for the job? Making sure you have the right hooks and screws is pretty straight-forward. Here are some examples of common hook/screw types that are suitable for different weights and wall types:Double Picture Hooks: Maximum load ability 5kg, suitable for wood and plasterboard.Plasterboard Fastening: Maximum load ability 15kg, suitable for plasterboard.Screw & Rawlplug: Maximum load ability 20kg, suitable for brick.Hanging Hook: Maximum load ability 40kg, suitable for brick and wood.Deciding Where to Hang ItAfter deciding on the most suitable screw and hook type, next decide where you'd like to hang your item. There are a few factors to consider here; the most important of which being whether electric cables or pipes are present to avoid potential accidents. For effective installation in your place of preference, here are things to bear in mind:✓ Mirrors and pictures come in all shapes and sizes but a general rule is to have the centre at eye-level, which is roughly around 150cm above the ground (if you're hanging a full-length mirror, this rule won't apply).✓ Installing above a console table or sofa?

Aim to leave at least 15 to 20 cm of space between the bottom of the mirror or picture and the piece of furniture.✓ Hanging more than one mirror or picture? A general rule is to allow at least 5cm between each piece to avoid a look that's overcrowded.✓ Finally, double check that no electric cables or pipes are in line with where you want to drive your nail in. Typically, electrical wires run vertically down from plug sockets and up from light switches, so try to avoid these areas. For extra safety though, we recommend using a detector, which will sense any wires, pipes and studs.Taking Measurements and Hanging Wire Hung Mirrors and Pictures​If your picture or mirror is fairly light and features a wire for hanging, use a hanging or picture hook (or two if you feel that one's not enough to support it) and follow these steps for measuring: 1) Measure the middle point of the top of the mirror or picture and hold the picture up at the wall at the position where you'd like it to hang.

Make a mark on the wall with a pencil, indicating where the very top centre of the mirror will go.2) As your pencil point on the wall indicates where the top of the mirror is and not where the hook should go, turn your mirror over and hold the cord taught, measuring down from the top to locate your ideal hook location. 3) Take this distance and mark down from your original wall mark to represent the exact position of where the base of the hook should go.4) Take care whilst using a hammer to attach your hook. Once in place, your mirror is ready to hang! Heavy Mirrors and Pictures with Strap HangersHeavier items (particularly mirrors) understandably require a little extra support and usually come with strap hangers attached to each side on the back. For these, you'll need to screw j-hooks onto the wall.​✓ When installing j-hooks, it's important to get the measurements exactly right. First establish the distance between the centres of the strap hangers to distinguish how far apart your j-hooks should be.✓ Next measure how long the distance is between the centre of the strap hangers and the bottom of the frame.

Then decide how far from the ceiling you'd like your mirror or picture to hang. ✓ If hanging the mirror or picture above a mantelpiece or piece of furniture, measure up from its top point to where you'd like the bottom of the mirror or picture to hang. ✓ Take your measurements and find the centre point of where you'd like to hang your mirror, marking a centre line with a pencil.✓ From this point, take the distance between the strap hangers and apply half of the measurement to either side of your centre line pencil at the height you'd like your j-hooks to go. ✓ Use a laser level for accuracy and mark your points with a pencil.Install one hook first and double check your measurements to confirm the exact distance for where the second hook should go. A laser level can then be used again to check that they are level.After installing the hooks, if you don't find your picture to be level, we recommend adjusting the strap hangers as opposed to the j-hooks. These are simply unscrewed and re-screwed back on (a much simpler process than having to alter the j-hooks!)