Want a Smoother Ride? Change Your Wheel and Tire Size If you've been shopping for a new car lately, you may have noticed how many models have bigger wheels and a larger tire size. A bigger wheel/tire combo not only looks cool, it reduces the tire's sidewall height. The sidewall is the part of the tire between the inside diameter (where the tire meets the wheel) and the outside diameter (where the tire meets the pavement). The more sidewall you have, the more cushion there is between you and the road. Many cars with 18-, 19- and 20-inch wheels have very narrow sidewalls. This design vastly improves handling but tends to deliver a rather harsh ride.Conversely, handling is diminished when tires have tall sidewalls because there is more chance for excessive lean and roll (picture jogging in a nice pair of running shoes versus high heels). Thankfully, there is a good middle ground between ride comfort and performance, and it all comes down to wheel size. Whether you're in the market for a less aggressive ride or you already own a car and want to soften your setup, here are a few tips that can help.

Avoid Packages That Increase Wheel SizeMany cars offer numerous trim levels. Base models usually have the smallest tire/wheel combo, while top-of-the-line trims often see an increase in wheel size. Many times, a sport package option will increase both tire size and the suspension's stiffness. If you're not an enthusiast driver, you'll probably be happier with the stock setup. If the trim you like comes with bigger wheels and you don't like the ride, you can usually ask the dealer to equip the car with different wheels; he'll know which wheels will fit and which won't. Keep in mind that Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) wheels will be far more expensive than most aftermarket wheels.Touring Tires vs. SportNot all tires are created equal. Performance tires are usually made with softer compounds that increase traction but also increase road noise and reduce tire life. A touring tire is designed for the way most of us drive our cars, namely on highways and open roads at speeds no greater than 75 to 80 miles per hour.

Touring tires ride a bit softer, last much longer and can even help improve fuel economy.Laptop Vs Desktop Survey Plus or Minus OneIf you already own your car, you can buy an aftermarket wheel and tire package that will help improve ride comfort. Carpet Cleaning Machine Truck Mount SaleWhen changing the car's original wheels and tires, the general rule of thumb is that you can go up or down by one inch. Laptop Pc World RefurbishedFor example, if your car is currently riding on 17-in wheels, you can reduce the size to 16 inches. If you're looking for better handling, you can go up to an 18-in wheel.It's not recommended that you go much more than plus or minus one inch, as the car's suspension and springs were designed around the original wheel/tire setup.

Too radical a change may lead to handling issues as well as suspension damage. Similarly, many brake calipers and rotors are designed with very little clearance between the components and the wheel. Trying to move from, say, an 18-in wheel to a 16- or 15-in wheel probably won't work, as the wheel won't fit over the brakes. If you want to change your car's wheel size, there are a number of resources that can help. has an excellent tire and wheel fitment tool that not only lists which wheels and tires fit specific cars but also shows how your car will look wearing the wheels you've selected. 4. Terms & Conditions Select a Warehouse for Installation Find a Warehouse for Installation Select a Warehouse for InstallationWhy spend more at the gas pump when you can easily spend less? The team at The Family Handyman shares this list of DIY tricks for a noticeable difference in your fuel costs. The savings are based on driving 20,000 miles per year, in a car that gets 20 mpg, with gasoline priced at $3.75 a gallon.

Surveys show that 60 percent of the vehicles on the road have tires that are underinflated by at least 30 percent. That's at least 9 psi below the manufacturer's recommended pressure. That can cost you almost 7 percent in wasted fuel ($245 per year, or 24¢ per gallon). Plus, low air pressure causes premature tire wear, and that can cost almost $300 over the life of the tires. For best results, check your tire's air pressure with a digital pressure gauge (about $10 at any auto parts store) and fill to the recommended pressure shown on the decal inside the driver's door or on the driver's door pillar. If your 100,000-mile spark plugs have 80,000 miles on them, they're 80 percent worn. Misfires and incomplete combustion occur more frequently during that last 20,000 miles, costing you almost $562.50 in wasted fuel. You have to replace your spark plugs anyway, so do it early and pocket the savings. Even if you have to replace the plugs one extra time over the life of your car, you'll still come out way ahead.

And don't automatically assume your plugs are good for 100,000 miles. Many four-cylinder engines require new spark plugs at either 30,000 or 60,000-mile intervals. Your engine sucks in 14 million gallons of air through the filter every year. On older vehicles (pre-1999) a dirty air filter increases fuel usage by almost 10 percent ($350 per year, or 35¢ per gallon). On newer vehicles, the computer is smart enough to detect the lower airflow, and it cuts back on fuel. So your engine will lack power and pick-up. Check the filter when you change your oil and replace it at least once a year, or more if you drive in dirty, dusty conditions. If your tires are bowed out of alignment by just .017 in., it's the equivalent of dragging your tire sideways for 102 miles for every 20,000 you drive. That'll cost you $187.50 a year in wasted gas. It will wear your tires faster, costing you $70 more a year. Here's an easy way to check your alignment without taking your car in to the shop.

Buy a tread depth gauge ($2) and measure the tread depth on both edges of each tire (rear tires too). If one side of the tire is worn more than the other, your car needs to be aligned. An alignment costs about $80, so you'll still save $177.50 the first year alone.Hard acceleration in stop-and-go driving costs you 20 percent in gas mileage. If you live your life in rush hour traffic and like to put the pedal to the metal, spend all your extra time at the next stoplight figuring out how you could have spent the $750 a year you're wasting (70¢ per gallon). The plastic air dam (aka "spoiler") that's broken or missing wasn't just for a sporty look. If your car had an air dam, driving without it or with a damaged one can reduce your gas mileage. The air dam literally "dams off" airflow to the undercarriage of your car, forcing the air up and over the hood. That helps your car cut through the air with less drag. It also increases airflow to the A/C condenser and radiator, reducing the load on your car's electrical system.

to get a replacement air dam.Yes, you've heard it before, but how about some real world numbers to drive the point home? Aerodynamic drag is a minor concern in city driving, but it really kills your gas mileage at speeds over 55 mph. In fact, increasing your speed to 65 increases drag by 36 percent! If you do a lot of highway driving, getting to your destination a few minutes early could cost you an extra $500 to $600 a year. Keep it closer to 55 mph and use your cruise control. It will pay off. Oxygen sensors monitor the efficiency of combustion by tracking the amount of oxygen remaining in the exhaust. But they degrade over time and that can cost you up to 15 percent in gas mileage. When they fail, the computer lights up your "service engine soon" light, forcing you to incur an $80 diagnostic fee. On pre-1996 vehicles, replace your oxygen sensor every 60,000 miles to keep your mileage at its peak. On 1996 and newer vehicles, replace the sensors every 100,000 miles. Oxygen sensors cost about $60 each.