Home > Products > Accessories > Choose coordinating molding and trims to complete the room. Columbia Hardwood Flooring offers moldings, trims and stair accessories to give your room a polished look. All are available in wood species and colors that coordinate perfectly with the floor of your choice. For ending a hardwood floor under a door or against a sliding-glass door. Also designed to meet carpets and hard-surface flooring of different heights, such as ceramic tile or engineered hardwood. Used to cover the outside corner of a step. Milled to meet the hardwood floor and the riser of the stairs. A molding made out of a round piece of hardwood with a radius of 3/4". Hides expansion strip at the edge of room. Transitions from hardwood to a low-profile floor such as vinyl or indoor/outdoor carpeting. Provides a connection between two colors of hardwood, or hardwood and some other flooring of the same height. The Instaform Wood profile with Incizo® technology can be used as a Reducer, Baby Threshold, Square Nose, and T-molding.

To use, you simple cut off the piece or pieces that are not needed to create each of the four different molding applications. The Instaform wood profile is made from only the finest quality hardwood veneers in a variety of species. The veneer is wrapped over a water resistant MDF core for support and protection from moisture. The Instaform profile is then stained to coordinate with each individual floor and a wear layer is applied to resist everyday wear and tear.This story shows how to give your old stairs new life with wood treads and risers. You can refresh your old staircase with new treads and risers. Wood replacement treads are available that can be secured directly over the existing "subfloor" treads and risers. The "body" of these replacement treads is 1/2 inch thick so that your steps will remain a consistent height. The nose on the replacement tread is 1 inch thick to retain the illusion of a standard tread. You can also opt to remove the old stair surfaces and begin anew as shown here.

Select a wood type for the new treads and risers that will complement flooring and moldings in the rooms the stairs adjoin. Standard stair treads come with a rounded (bullnose) front edge and measure 1 inch thick and 11-1/4 inches deep. Plan to measure the width of each stair because each one will vary slightly in width. Stairs that are enclosed on both sides (with no balusters) are a job you can do yourself. For anything more complicated plan to hire a finish carpenter to do the job. About 1 hour per step Measuring tape, power saw, compass, pneumatic nailer Measuring, scribing, and using a power saw and pneumatic nailer Remove old stair surfaces if desired Stair treads, risers, wood putty Rip-cut the individual risers to the desired height. Measure the width of the riser and add 3/4 inch. Cut the riser to length. Temporarily tack the board in place. With the riser in place, separate the legs of a compass to 3/8 inch. Draw the compass down the wall as shown, scribing a line onto the riser.

Cut off the excess using the scribe as a guide and repeat the process on the opposite end of the riser. Scribe and cut the remaining risers in the same manner. Cut stair treads so they will overhang risers by 1 inch. Measure the width of each tread (which is the length of the board) and add 3/4 inch. Cut the tread to length. Scribe the end of the tread, following the same scribing procedure as described in Step 2.American Standard Whirlpool Tub Not Working Cut off the excess, following the scribed guidelines. Oxy Plus Weight LossScribe the other end of the tread, following the same procedure as before, and cut off the excess tread.Allure Wedding Dress For Sale Position treads on the stairs and secure each one with a pneumatic face nailer.

Fill nail holes with wood putty.Of course, refinishing hardwood . That’s why all the Big Box stores rent floor sanders, right?But just because you can rent a sander doesn’t mean you should. Even if your friends did dub you “Jackie-Of-All-Trades” after that amazing bathroom re-do last spring, you still might not have the stuff it takes to refinish your floors.Seriously, you could end up with a floor that has so many dips and grooves, you’ll get more seasick than you did on that Disney cruise when you were 10. Worse, you could make a dangerous newbie mistake and start a fire. We’ll explain in just a bit).Even if the cost of hiring a pro ($4 to $5 per square foot) makes you sweat, don’t consider taking on the job yourself without an (ahem) honest evaluation of your own skills. (Do you really want to put your home value on the line to learn a new skill?) But if after reading this, you still decide to , we’ve got a few tips to help you avoid a costly #fail.If you’re a long-time DIYer, but first-time refinisher, ask yourself if you could do these two things:#1. 

Push a grocery-store cart (that has a sticky wheel and a toddler in the seat) at a steady pace with no jerky movements and no stops for your entire lunch break.OK, maybe those are a bit over the top. But sanding and staining your floors is no cake walk.A floor sander can weigh well over 100 pounds — and move like it has a mind of its own (not unlike a wobbly store buggy). Plus it’ll make a ton of noise the whole time, completely getting on your nerves.“The process is quite time-intensive, and not recommended for first-time DIYers,” says Victoria Stepanov, an interior designer who’s been remodeling homes for more than 15 years.It’s difficult to control the sander, and while the bare floor may look fine after you’ve sanded it, the flaws will come shining through once the finish is done. You could be creating hills and valleys as you go along, Stepanov says, and not even know it. But once completed, the floor will have an ugly, topographical appearance, inflicting a serious ding on your home’s value.

Stepanov also very strongly advises newbies to skip oil-based stains and finishes, which require a steady hand with a paintbrush and tons of patience.Uneven, hurried brushstrokes can leave your precious floor 16 shades of brown — not to mention the possibility of spontaneous combustion if you don’t handle your oily rags correctly. That’s because some oils dry through a process of oxidation — the same process that causes fires (see, it really can happen!). So oily fabrics must be sealed in a metal can with water filling the remaining space, or laid out individually to dry quickly. Never, ever pile up oily rags.If that isn’t enough to make you think twice, how about if you knew you’d have to apply two or three coats to make it worthwhile? Now you’ve multiplied your chances of screwing up times three.Double-check that your type of floor can actually be refinished. Attempting to refinish laminate floors — which aren’t made of wood — could ruin them. And engineered hardwood, which has a layer of hardwood over a plywood core, isn’t a much better candidate.

Re-sealing and buffingis a much cheaper and more doable DIY project than refinishing. In fact, if you re-seal and buff floors every few years, you may never have to refinish. But it only works if damage is minimal. Try re-sealing and buffing engineered floors instead. But basically, only floors with real hardwood throughout can tolerate refinishing.You should’ve been told what type of floor your home has when you bought it — either in the listing details or in the inspection report. Or you can usually figure it out by pulling up a floor register and looking at the side of a plank to see if it’s all wood, laminate, or engineered wood.Installing the belt on a sander incorrectly can ruin your floor. Ask for a demonstration of how the whole thing works when you rent it.Pick a discrete spot to test your process before you ruin your entire living room. Some chemical- or oil-based cleaning products leave a nasty, nearly-invisible residue, which might bubble to the surface once you start to seal the planks.

If anything looks odd during testing, strip your floors using a mixture of ammonia and water, or use a commercial hardwood cleaner.“No one likes surprises,” says John DeWees, owner of Denver Carpet and Flooring. “It might have been 20 years since someone used a chemical-based product, but it still got into the wood, and you don’t notice until the job is complete.”Keep your wood natural, then finish it with a water-based polyurethane instead.DeWees says the water-based finish dries quickly, which is a plus. It does mean you’ll need to work fast, though, he says. It can start feeling dry to the touch in as little as 15 minutes. If you don’t work quickly, you risk visible overlapping strokes on the finished floor. Not a deal-breaker, but it will look amateurish.Refinishing your floor can take a week or more. A lot of that time will be spent, well, watching paint dry. Pros will let you know how long to stay away and help you seal up the room, but doing it yourself means you’re on your own.