• ELASTOMERIC MEMBRANE, 300% ELONGATION • INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR • WILL SEAL OPEN PORES AND BRIDGE HAIRLINE CRACKS • ON POROUS SUBSTRATES USE 1110 PRIMER • WILL COMPLETELY WATER-PROOF • AGGREGATE FILLED TO HIDE MINOR SURFACE DEFECTS • SEAL OPEN PORES AND BRIDGE HAIRLINE CRACKS • SINGLE COMPONENT MOISTURE CURE • VERY TOUGH AND DURABLE • DARKENS ON UV EXPOSURE • COLOURS OR AMBER CLEAR • USE 510S AS PRIMER • FOOD CONTACT APPROVED • SINGLE COMPONENT URETHANE • UV STABLE, INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR EXPOSURE • DECORATIVE WITH HIGH GLOSS • USE 530S AS PRIMER • 2 COMPONENT RESIN SYSTEM • EXTREME CHEMICAL RESISTANCE • VERY FAST CURE • USE 710 AS PRIMER • CURES AT SUB-ZERO TEMPERATURES (-40ºC/-40ºF) • FOOD CONTACT APPROVEDFixing a cracked wall is an easy do-it-yourself project. Whether found in drywall, plaster or concrete, a crack in a wall is an eyesore.

Generally caused by the natural settling of a house over time, you can repair a cracked wall in a weekend. Simple tools and materials from your local home improvement store will have you on your way to a smooth wall. if drywall cracking or surface distortion is severe or there are other indications of significant settling or potential structural problems, have your home inspected by a qualified building professional before repairing the drywall. Fixing Drywall Fixing a crack in drywall is the easiest of the three wall types you are likely to encounter in your home. Use a utility knife to cut a 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch V-notch along the length of the crack. Vacuum out loose material. Cover the crack with either mesh joint tape or joint compound and paper tape, followed by a thin layer of joint compound, extending about 2 inches on each side of the tape. Apply a second coat of joint compound, feathered approximately 6 to 7 inches on either side of the crack. Allow to dry overnight. Lightly sand until smooth.

The wall is ready for paint or wallpaper. Plaster Wall Patching Treat minor cracks in plaster similar to a drywall crack, with joint compound. However, if the plaster is pulling away from the lath, you first need to shore up the wall with a two-step process that includes a conditioner spray followed by adhesive. Start by drilling holes with a 3/16-inch masonry bit that will penetrate the plaster but not the wood lath, every three inches along the length of the crack. Vacuum the dust and debris from the holes. Spray the adhesive conditioner into each hole. Allow dwell time as per the manufacturer's instructions. Inject the adhesive into each hole, beginning at the lowest point of the wall. Clean up excess adhesive with a damp sponge. Immediately attach plaster rings with a drill to pull the plaster tight against the wall. Allow to cure as per the manufacturer's instructions. Remove the plaster rings. Hide the holes and original crack with a coat of joint compound. Lightly sand, then apply a second coat of joint compound.

Sand smooth when dry. Concrete Walls To repair a concrete wall you will need an epoxy repair kit. The epoxy will make a watertight seal in the crack. Begin your repair by tapping 3-inch finish nails partially into the crack every 12 inches; these nails will attach injection ports. Epoxy comes in two parts, A and B, which you need to mix just before using. Outdoor Dining Sets Balcony HeightMix equal parts of the epoxy on a scrap piece of wood with a putty knife. 4 Inch Marine Shower FaucetApply a small amount of mixed epoxy on each injection port tab; Discount Flooring Dallas Gaattach each port against the wall by covering each of the finish nails with one port. Spread mixed epoxy over the crack, extending 1 inch on either side of the crack.

Cover the flange of each injection port with epoxy as well. You can use a paintbrush dipped in mineral spirits to feather the epoxy at the edges. Allow to cure for six to 10 hours. Using a caulk gun, inject liquid concrete repair into the ports, starting at the bottom, until the liquid oozes from the port. Plug each port before moving to the next. Allow to cure for at least five days, then cut the port flush with the wall with a hacksaw. Repairing Deep Cracks If cracks in drywall or plaster are deeper than a 1/4 inch, you will have better success if you first fill the the crevice with a filler compound prior to taping with joint compound. Mix the compound as per the manufacturer's instructions. Fill the crack until it is flush with the existing wall. Cover with tape and joint compound, as outlined previously, to achieve a smooth wall. Signs of Structural Damage Concrete walls, especially in a foundation, are load-bearing walls. Although you can patch minor cracks, major fissures can be a sign of poor structural integrity.

A horizontal crack that stretches the length of a wall as well as bulging is a tell-tale sign of serious damage. Cracks of this nature should be repaired only by a professional. If your foundation has cracks wider than 1/4-inch wide, or if you have stairstep cracks in blocks or bricks, you can hire a contractor to plug them by injecting epoxy ($1,500-$3,000) or do it yourself with epoxy putty, but either way, you’ll only be stopping water from coming in.You need to fix the underlying problem.The most common culprit is water. It can accumulate in the soil around the foundation, which expands the soil and puts pressure on walls and foundation footings, causing cracks to appear. Check to make sure all gutters and downspout drains are in good working order, and that the soil around your foundation is properly graded — it should slope at least 6 inches for every 10 horizontal feet.Most foundations are required to have a perimeter drain system, such as a French drain, that channels sub-surface water away from the foundation.

It’s possible for this drain to become blocked, causing water to accumulate in the soil and putting pressure on your foundation walls. If you suspect a blocked drain, you will need to hire a professional to unclog it.A foundation that has tipped, bowed, or severely cracked requires substantial reinforcement to prevent further deterioration. Repair the walls from the inside with wood or steel braces, carbon-fiber mesh, or wall anchors spaced 6 feet or so apart along the entire wall.For about $500 to $700 each, wood and steel braces install against the wall and attach to the floor and overhead joists, blocking further movement. However, they intrude into the basement area about 6 inches, making it difficult to finish the walls. A newer option, which costs less than half as much and winds up almost invisible, involves spreading epoxy in vertical strips and then pressing on carbon-fiber mesh to lock the wall in place.Wall anchors are similar to large bolts. They consist of metal plates in your yard (installed by excavating) and metal plates on the inside of your foundation walls.

The plates are connected by steel rods buried horizontally. The connectors are gradually tightened to stabilize and help straighten the wall. Wall anchors are placed every 6-8 feet, and cost $400-$600 each. If a foundation wall bows severely (more than 3 inches) or if you want to make it straight again, you probably won’t be able to fix the problem from the inside. You will probably need to excavate part or all of the foundation and rebuild it — a $30,000 to $40,000 job.If a broken water pipe, a plugged gutter, or a drainage problem in your yard sent enough water cascading alongside a perimeter foundation to undermine an area, a contractor might be able to shore up the area with more concrete or shim the sill plate to make the area level again. Or you might need to tear out a section of the foundation, re-pour, and tie the new section into the old with rebar and epoxy.Simple fixes with concrete and lumber might cost as little as $500 or as much as several thousand dollars. Just be sure that the underlying cause is fixed first, or the repair won’t last.

It may sit on soil that expands when damp and shrinks when dry. This so-called “expansive soil” is found in all states and has damaged about a quarter of all houses in the U.S., according to the American Society of Civil Engineers. If you suspect that’s the problem, check with your local building authority to see if expansive soils exist in your area.Dealing with this kind of soil is most difficult if you have a slab foundation because access underneath the slab is limited. First, try to reduce moisture fluctuations under your house. Make sure soil slopes away from the house, and pipe away all gutter water. Replace water-thirsty landscaping within 5 feet of the walls with plants that need little water or, even better, install a concrete path around the house so rainwater can’t soak in there.If you live in a damp climate and notice settling issues such as sticky doors during droughts, try the opposite approach. Keep the soil evenly moist by running drip irrigation around the perimeter during dry spells.

If you see cracks in the soil, it’s too dry. But don’t dump water into a crack; irrigate a foot or two away from the foundation, and use an automatic timer so you add a little water several times a day rather than a lot all at once.A contractor may be able to raise a sunken area in the middle of a room by “mud-jacking,” or pumping a cement slurry under the slab under pressure. Mud-jacking can’t raise load-bearing walls, however. For that, you need to support the slab with underpinning that reaches down to a more stable layer, a fix that costs $5,000 to tens of thousands of dollars.Options for underpinning include steel posts driven in hydraulically, and helical piers, which have blades that screw into the soil. Installation costs $1,200-$1,500 per pier, with one every 6 to 8 feet.Another option consists of pre-cast concrete pieces about 1 foot high that are pressed down on top of each other by the weight of the house, creating columns underneath.Contractors tend to specialize in a single solution and often are quick to point out problems of other systems.